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Jane Dennis ventures into the world of menswear and finds plenty to take her fancy.
What's sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander at this year's iD fashion show, according to fashion label Aduki.
The Dunedin label's designer, Juliet Fay, is preparing to show her first menswear collection this Saturday, leveraging off the success of her womenswear lines, at the Dunedin Railway Station event.
Fay will not be alone in the menswear stakes, but keeping good company on the night with internationally acclaimed Nom*D taking the wraps off its boys' clothes, and emerging labels Elusiv and Love Lies Bleeding also doing their bit to spruce up the blokes.
‘‘I think those brands are doing great things, and the Aduki menswear collection looks to do this too,'' Fay says.
‘‘The range is a complement to the already existing women's range, which has been established for seven years, so although we have not been in the menswear game long, we still have the experience and expertise in the industry as a whole.''
Fay believes her menswear label will fill a niche of stylish, but ‘‘relaxed'' clothing. ‘‘These pieces are ideal for the girlfriend to borrow too.''
Fay is ‘‘super-excited'' about showing her winter '08 collection, Cabin Fever, at iD.
‘‘The iD Fashion show is something we are really looking forward to; it's a chance to showcase the brand alongside other top Dunedin designers, as well as supporting and celebrating the local community.
‘‘Aduki has always been about fresh, cool and effortless dressing, so we thought it was the perfect time to include the guys in this philosophy and add a few more options to the menswear market.''
Has a menswear line always been in the pipeline? ‘‘Yes, but we have just been waiting for the right time to release it.''
‘‘ A few of our stockists already have a menswear section in their stores, so it seemed a perfect medium to expand the range.
‘‘ One of our stockists had guys coming in buying our women's merino hoodies in the larger sizes, so this really confirmed it for us, that we needed to start looking after the guys out there,'' she says. {C}
A strong response to Aduki's merino basics for women, encouraged her to developa men's merino range into the collection, as an alternative to the more sporty brands out there.
Cabin Fever looksto offer an escape from the restlessness, irritability and confinement felt when you're trapped indoors during the depths of winter [with your partner],'' Fay says.
‘‘Without the menswear collection, this wouldn't have been so apt, as there is nothing much quirky about a woman cooped up in a cabin on her own.''
The collection is full of lush merinos, plaids, patterns, quirky prints and dark moody colours - individual pieces that interact beautifully together. The menswear in particular has a casual elegance, made in everyday, quality fabrics. ‘‘It has all the ingredients of what the Aduki brand represents,'' Fay says.
The brand built its initial popularity from a shop opened in Dunedin in 2000, which was closed five years ago when Fay joined the Dunedin Fashion Incubator to concentrate on wholesale.
The move paid off. She left the incubator last year to set up her own studio, and now stocks 30 retail outlets throughout New Zealand, including three in Dunedin - Carlson, Hype and, recently, Slick Willy's (with her menswear range).
‘‘The menswear has slotted into everything so well and has created a more structured feel to the brand,'' she says.
Fay's inspiration for womenswear comes from what she wants to wear, but she did seek advice on the men's range.
‘‘We must have researched the right guys, as the collection has had real success for its first season, with many agreeing we have filled a niche in the market,'' Fay says.
Nom*D's winter 2008 range, XX1 The Birthday Party, is a landmark collection, and it's Nom*D at its best, as the label celebrates its 21st Birthday, with a sense of play and celebration.
‘‘The realisation that we have been in this industry for 21 years is pretty special, and thinking about the growth from a baby to an adult over the time frame is pretty special too,'' designer Margarita Robertson says.
The collection looks back over those years, as Robertson explains. ‘‘Sometimes you don't want to repeat a style because it was from another time, but to realise the significance of it, and love it still is a great experience. It was a great opportunity to do a retrospective.''
Nom*D's range shows vintage garments bonding to form one-off pieces. Subtle signatures include black on black, textured rayons, graphic knits, regal blue, and black foil printed broderie dresses.
Robertson's menswear is completely androgynous. ‘‘It came about from us using menswear to create our womenswear, which then twisted around again and became menswear, so chances are you will see some womenswear on men and menswear on women.''
Already Robertson and her team are collaborating their ideas for summer 2008 and 2009, and organising sales of Nom*D's winter collection in the northern hemisphere. Robertson has already been to Japan this year and flew out of Dunedin last week for work commitments in Paris and London.
She is not back until March 10, and is unable to attend the iD event this year, but her Nom*D team are on board and promise it to be a spectacular showing.
Asked what advice she would give to the three other designers showing their menswear range at iD, Robertson replied: ‘‘I think the designers first and foremost need to establish their identities and stay with them. There is nothing more pleasurable than people identifying our garments simply by the look. For longevity, just hang in there.''
Nicola Reilly, of Elusiv, and Rachel Easting and Anjali Stewart, of Love Lies Bleeding, are also out to impress the boys at id this year.
Reilly's menswear collection, Discovery, was designed with her partner's (co-owner and Highlander rugby player Ben Smith) needs in mind.
Her garments are strong and masculine with particular attention to detail and fit. Gorgeous merino knits, sturdy antique denim jeans combined with durable lined vests and chunky jackets, and a selection of smart casual shirts, blazers and dress pants, make up this fully wearable Dunedin-attitude-to-fashion label.
‘‘We have always ensured the Elusiv collections express the truly Dunedin fashion attitude of genuine and considered expression, while remaining true to every man's desire to subtly express his inner confidence,'' Reilly says.
Love Lies Bleeding's collection, Smoke and Mirrors, is for both men and women this season.
‘‘Rachel and I went back to our primary school days,'' Stewart says. "Elaine from Seinfeld was the muse for the collection. We wanted to create an awkward eternally 1990s collection.
‘‘We paired unexpected fabrics and textures within the range, and many of the pieces are unisex,'' she says.
‘‘We have extended our denim range and done some ultra-'90s denim washes, from chambray to jet black. There is also some greaser tailoring in the range, which contrasts against some of our graphic pieces, including the bunny T which has been really popular this season. It's also a bit country with some cowboy shirts thrown in.''
Based in Wellington, Easting and Stewart both studied in Dunedin at Otago Polytechnic, in sculpture and fashion respectively.