Could autumn be the time to try some Albarino? PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES Among the frontrunners for “alternative or emerging varieties” popping up in New Zealand, Albarino might just have snuck its head into the lead, but only by a nose (forgive the pun). NZ Winegrowers 2026 Vineyard Data Report shows that albarino has risen to be the sixth-most planted white grape variety and in number 12 spot across all white and red grape varieties. To put that into some sort of context though, the 66ha devoted to albarino are dwarfed by the 2668ha and 3019ha planted to pinot gris and chardonnay respectively, while the 30,747ha given over to sauvignon blanc absolutely towers above them all. That said, there is quiet excitement amongst a small group of winemakers that this grape might have significant potential in New Zealand conditions. The grape has its origins in Galicia in the far northwest of Spain, particularly in the Rías Baixas region while in neighbouring Portugal, going by the name alvarinho, it is the backbone of the vino verde style of wine. The Galicia region is sometimes called “green Spain” as the climate is cooler and wetter. Albarino has thick skins and open bunches which are more resistant to humidity and dampness in its homeland: this resilience and its early ripening seen as factors in its favour in New Zealand conditions. Doug and Raewyn Bell are reputed to the first to plant albarino in NZ on their Gisborne Vineyard in 2009, though Stanley Estates in Marlborough also lays a claim to that title. Whichever the case, albarino can now be found in the majority of New Zealand’s wine regions. Gisborne remains the leader, though Marlborough, Nelson, Hawke’s Bay and Auckland are not far behind while Central Otago is recorded as having a paltry 0.03ha planted. With its bold flavours of citrus and stone fruits, hints of salinity, rich texture and refreshingly zesty acidity the grape is seen as a natural accompaniment to shellfish and seafood in general. Albarino might be the exciting new grape variety you’ve been waiting to discover and the following marvellous three wines are a great introduction to what it can offer. 2025 Tohu Whenua Matua S.V Nelson Albarino Price RRP $24.99 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Powerfully perfumed nose, peachy nuances, flitting between lemon and lime, stonefruit, a wisp of salinity. Quite intense in the most, great juiciness and sapidity, crunchy, tangy, almost hitting some sweet ’n’ sour buttons in a really good way. Lime and stonefruit, great length, closing with that little sea-shell note. Super tangy and zesty, just brimming with flavour. www.tohuwines.co.nz 2024 Albarino Brothers Gisborne Albarino Price RRP $24.99 Rating Excellent Distinctive nose, smoke, graphite, wet stone, peach, citrus, rather engaging. Creamy richness on the front palate, becoming finer as it travels through the mouth. Another wine contrasting fruit sweetness and tanginess, a little oyster shell, citrus, good length. Integration the key here, this is supple and oh so drinkable, building with air. Lip- smacking close, lots of interest. www.albarinobrothers.co.nz 2025 Forrest Marlborough Albarino Price RRP $28 Rating Excellent Wild herb, green herb notes lead, capsicum, peach, citrus, a sense of fleshiness and depth. Lovely texture and richness, mouthfilling, peach and lime cordial, now showing saline touches. Fresh, vibrant, that creamy richness flows through the palate yet there’s also zestiness offering a refreshing contrast. Long close. A flavour explosion, with air a little menthol/minty note joins the party. www.forrest.co.nz
