It feels like it has been a while since my last pinot gris column, which can sometimes simply be down to the cycles of new releases and samples coming my way: a couple of these have been waiting for their moment to shine amid a line-up. The grape is an accomplished traveller across a swathe of Europe; probably best known in Alsace in France, though under its synonym of pinot grigio in Northern Italy possibly equally recognisable. Italy and Germany grow much more of the grape than France in fact, with sizeable plantings also in Hungary. It is popular in Luxembourg, Austria, Switzerland and Slovenia, and making an impact in the west of the United States, Australia and of course in New Zealand. 2025 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $33 Rating Excellent Deep colour with copper tinges. Engaging perfume, stonefruits and stewed apple with a dusting of icing sugar, stony mineral nuances as it opens up. Bright and zesty in the mouth, apple leads, nashi pear, ginger fudge, wisps of caramel. Brimming with flavour, textural impact and chewy grip suggesting skin contact, with a powerfully zesty close. Fruit rich yet dry. www.rockburn.co.nz 2024 Monte Christo Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $40 Rating Excellent A hint of preserved lemon, initially more subtly expressed, coming out of its shell to reveal fragrance, stonefruit, dusty schist. Fresh, youthful, it’s all about impeccable balance and integration, another dry expression, so easy to enjoy. Now a little chopped herb (sage?) on the nose. Far from a bombastic, shout from the rooftops wine, quite simply incredibly drinkable. www.montechristowinery.co.nz 2024 Nevis Bluff S.V Central Otago Dry Pinot Gris Price RRP $39 Rating Excellent Citrus aspects, mandarin perhaps, stonefruits, red apple, subtle yet engaging. The palate steps up the ante with real flavour depth and texture, those flavours unmistakably Pinot Gris, lingering long in the mouth. A bit of a slow burner this, swelling on nose and palate with air, creating a real flavour explosion. Clearly in a great spot to enjoy now. www.nevisbluff.co.nz 2025 Tohu Awatere Valley Pinot Gris Price RRP $18.99 Rating Very Good Nashi pear, ripe pear, nectarine, a little dusty prickle on the nose. That fruit richness carries through onto the palate, neatly contrasted by bright acidity. Still feels quite youthful, initially a hint of tautness before it begins to loosen its shoulders with air. Opens up nicely in the glass, adding wine gum and citrus to the mix. Splash this into the glass to give it some air. www.tohuwines.co.nz 2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Pinot Gris Price RRP $24 Rating Very Good to Excellent The aromas leap from the glass, flitting between stone and tropical fruits, apricot, pineapple, ripe nectarine, peach, fruit driven with great generosity. The palate continues the journey, lovely purity of fruit, nice texture and integration, remaining fresh till the close. This has Pinot Gris writ large on it and surely will appeal to all ardent fans of the grape. www.riverbyestate.com 2024 Quartz Reef Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $36.50 Rating Excellent A deeper register to the nose, fruit pastille, light savoury qualities, elegant and composed rather than a fruit bomb. This has grip and structure, spice and savoury characters, a touch of fruit pith phenolics adding to the texture, with a long, long dry close. A cooling influence, seashell, or water over riverstones. Complex, fascinating, a more serious style that will beautifully complement food. www.quartzreef.co.nz
