Nodding to Dietrich's personal style, Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri dressed models in white shirts, sometimes with ties, pleated trousers and black blazers.
Belted or cowl-neck dresses looked to 1940s silhouettes while some frocks sparkled with beading.
There were also nods to New York, with prints of the Statue of Liberty featuring on some designs.
Others were adorned with depictions of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, where Dior is based.
"These hands represent positively and in an empowering way the female sex and they are the hands of the seamstresses, of the creators, myself, of Maria Grazia and the hands of the women that made this project possible," Fontaine said in an interview.
Among the celebrities attending the show were actors Anya Taylor-Joy, Michelle Williams, Naomi Watts, Rosamund Pike and Charlize Theron.