Positive move

The quiet edgy elegance of White By Design provides a comfortable and relaxed environment for customers. Photos by Gregor Richardson.
The quiet edgy elegance of White By Design provides a comfortable and relaxed environment for customers. Photos by Gregor Richardson.
White By Design’s founder and owner Wendy Jones outside her spacious new fashion gallery on George, St, Dunedin with one of the new transparent store mannequins. Both are in tops by Harlowe Silks.
White By Design’s founder and owner Wendy Jones outside her spacious new fashion gallery on George, St, Dunedin with one of the new transparent store mannequins. Both are in tops by Harlowe Silks.
The warm and welcoming sales team at White By Design (from left) Barbara Morris, Lizzie Hyndman and Beth O’Connor.
The warm and welcoming sales team at White By Design (from left) Barbara Morris, Lizzie Hyndman and Beth O’Connor.

A move just a few doors down has given Dunedin fashion retailer and designer Wendy Jones a boost. She tells Jude Hathaway why the change of address.

Flying in the face of changing trends, White By Design's retail business growth has been one of the catalysts for its owner Wendy Jones casting her eye around for larger premises.

''We did not want to leave this area of George St, with its many locally owned and operated fashion stores. We had come to know all our neighbours well and felt very much a part of the surrounds.''

Almost serendipitously a retail location became available close by.

''There was a wait for the earthquake strengthening and the interior renovation to be completed, but we have a marvellous landlord and we did not mind.''

On July 30, laden with spirited positivity she uplifted her fashion gallery, from 322 George St and moved stock and chattels into the space a few doors north at 334 George St.

She reopened on August 1.

''It was great to only be closed for a day,'' Jones said, clearly thrilled with what the new, spacious premises bring to the business.

The shop's splendid alterations included wall cladding removed to reveal the original brick interior walls and new carpet tiles with an industrial feel that the black wall columns also provide. The spacious fitting rooms at the rear of the store also had a refit.

Design-erly finishing touches include paintings by Flynn Morris-Clarke and Sarah Shackleton, sumptuous armchairs and a magnificent antique chiffonier that doubles as a counter.

Transparent store mannequins, framed in the elegant leadlight windows, draw the eye of pedestrians.

Both George St premises were, incidentally, former fashion boutiques, Deval and Carlson, respectively.

Jones, incidentally a direct descendent of the notable Otago early settler, Johnny Jones, had previously pulled her already successful retail enterprise, with its solid client base, out of the Roslyn Village in 2014.

After eight years happily hunkered down in the Roslyn site where she had established in 2006, the time had come to shift.

''It was a desperate move, really,'' Jones said.

''After being a great mall at a time when destination shopping was thriving, it began losing its vibrancy. Businesses were closing around us and it was definitely time to look to George St.''

Neither Jones nor her team have regretted the decision. New customers have become regulars and new labels have been added to her growing stock.

Jones sees a bright future for fashion retail in the city.

''Our clients enjoy shopping for their latest fashion requirements, seeing the new season's collections arriving in, being able to touch and feel fabrics and being assisted, if required, by the staff. Many enjoy being guided into new looks that take them away from their comfort zone.''

If the surrounds are still relatively new for customers, the same friendly staff remain. Lizzie Hyndman and Barbara Morris have been with Jones for the past decade.

While both women have long histories in the retail trade and are adept at customer service and product knowledge, they also have their separate strengths.

Hyndman's is in merchandising, while Morris brings flair to outfitting the mannequins.

A new staff member - but one who is the most familiar with the premises - is Beth O'Connor. She previously worked at Carlson, after owning and operating hospitality outlets in the CBD for many years.

Jones' own history is steeped in the apparel industry.

She was born into the Dunedin rag trade. Her parents John and Roberta Jones headed Tudor House after Mr Jones took over the clothing manufacturing company from his late parents, Walter and Sally Jones.

The business, which is now operated in Filleul St by her brother Simon, has concentrated on the manufacture of primary and high school uniforms since its establishment more than 75 years ago.

As well as her strong ties with the apparel industry, Jones also has a significant connection to Dunedin retail. Her maternal grandmother owned and operated the prestigious Gwen McLean Shoe Lounge, which was situated just a block south from White By Design.

''As a child, I would regularly visit both after school. At Tudor House I learned to use the industrial sewing machines. My parents taught me everything about quality fabrics and the many textures and compositions of cloth. My mother was an excellent seamstress and made all our clothes when we were children.''

Australia beckoned when she was 19 and from 1979 until 1984 she worked for various clothing companies in Sussex St, in Surrey Hills, gaining a wealth of experience in all facets of the business side of the industry. She also married and had two children.

''We came back so that the children could grow up in Dunedin.'' Jones said.

But, despite her introduction earlier than most to the apparel industry, it was not until 2000 that Jones made her serious debut.

''It was the millennium and by then I was a single mum. It was time for me to begin a new career path in an industry I'd always loved.''

Her daughter Alex was 11 at the time, her son, Elliott, 7.

She enrolled at the Otago Polytechnic School of Fashion, where she spent two years completing various courses, including pattern-making, drafting and drawing.

She also based herself at Tudor Clothing, making homeware that was sold around the country under her new Factor brand.

A move into designing and manufacturing white, tailored cotton shirts followed. These white shirts were significant in the naming of her first store four years later.

The other reason behind its name was its starkly and smartly simple all-white interior colour scheme.

''And there will always be white shirts in the shop or we will source them. They are such a go-anywhere garment,'' Jones said with a smile.

As she gained more time to devote to her Factor label she began producing popular small seasonal summer and winter women's wear ranges. These aired at the iD Dunedin Railway Station show, among other city fashion events.

In 2012 she put the label on hold while continuing to develop her merino essentials, manufactured by Ruth Mullinger, at Adventure Outfitters and a viscose version for the summers.

''I had begun to realise there is not enough time to be able to do everything well,'' she added.

From the outset Jones has concentrated on sourcing local, New Zealand and Australian labels that are exclusive to her in Dunedin.

The stable has grown and is ever-evolving and she is happy with the choices it presents to customers.

Along with Factor Essentials, Suture is another Dunedin label stocked.

New Zealand labels include Wilson Trollope, Harlowe, Lianne Bellis, Salted Ink by Paula Ryan and Harlowe Silks (which uses the ancient Shibori Japanese method of screen printing). From Australia comes Tara Hall, Saints by Mesop, and Anna Hoffman.

Other well-known brands include Maison Scotch, Alibi, Sabatini, Moda and the delightfully comfortable Vassalli Jeans.

There's also the fabulous, Italian-manufactured knitwear brands B.Yu and Moda Immagine.

''We concentrate on timeless pieces in quality fabrics and mainly of natural fibres,'' says fashion-savvy Jones.

In the meantime, she has just launched a website (www.whitebydesign.nz) to showcase her exclusive in-house garments.

With everything in place Jones has all eyes on the future.

''This is a beautiful space. I look forward to coming to work and although fashion retail is hard in this climate, we are doing fine. I love it. And yes, it's a passion!''

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