Chenin blanc's spiritual homeland is the Loire Valley in France, though the largest plantings now exist in South Africa (where it is also known as Steen) and in California's Central Valley, where its high natural acidity is seen as a foil to those warmer climates.
New Zealand Winegrowers statistics record just 23.8ha of chenin blanc planted here; less than albarinho, arneis and gruner veltliner and a furrow in the ground compared to the 20,266ha devoted to sauvignon blanc.
Chenin is a very versatile grape. In its Loire homeland, it lends itself to a raft of bubblies and some of the finest long lived sweet wines you will find. In between these two extremes are thrilling dry, off dry and medium sweet versions labelled Vouvray, Montlouis and Savennierres.
Further afield, South Africa, California and Argentina produce a sea of inexpensive (and largely nondescript) wine from high yielding vineyards, while countries as diverse as Brazil, India, Thailand and Mexico are all chenin blanc outposts.
South African and Californian growers are rediscovering their old vine heritage of this noble white variety, crafting superlative examples, while here in New Zealand a groundswell of enthusiasm for its distinctive apple, quince, honey and damp straw flavours has seen a number of wineries releasing examples in recent years.
At a recent tasting led by local wine enthusiast and motor racing buff Paul Coghill, a group was treated to what amounted to a snapshot of the New Zealand chenin blanc market based on the 2011 vintage (when many newcomers released their first examples).
Millton, Forrest and Margrain wineries (along with Esk Valley, which we didn't try on the day) have long been flag wavers for chenin and their experience and passion for the variety showed, as they were the most compelling examples. Time and experience will work wonders for the newcomers, so watch this space.
Price: $26.99
Rating: Good
A grassy, gooseberry nose on first opening gives way to tropical fruits and pineapple.
A further sniff reveals pears, quince and spices.
Very sweet entry with pineapple and pear cordial on the finish.
Quite textural and viscous with a touch of citrusy zing; then gooseberries.
Palate a tad simple and overtly sweet.
Price: Around $30
Rating: Very good
A bit of a slow burner, this one.
Straw and honey on the nose disguised by a perfumed note.
Stewed apples and then pears on the palate with grapefruity acidity giving a sweet and sour note.
Quite a bracing finish with a hint of heat.
This opened up more and more over time to become quite polished and tasty.
Price: $33 (sub $30 on special)
Rating: Excellent
Subtle nose quickly opens up to reveal notes of pear, quince, bush honey and damp straw.
A little bit of gum also.
Creamy in the mouth: supple, with the crisp but nicely integrated acidity giving freshness and then lovely length.
Fruit sweetness yet not sweet, with cooked apples along with a minerally note.
A lovely example.
