REVIEW: An impressive bunch of rieslings

A recent batch of 15 rieslings stood out for two reasons: there was nothing with a recommended retail price under $20, although you may find some of them discounted, and there were some startlingly good ones, especially from Waipara, north of Christchurch.

There's a greater appreciation of this versatile variety. It's no longer seen as just a cheaper, slightly sweet, fruity wine, although such rieslings are still around.

This bunch impressed with stylish tension and generally low alcohol, and also with the differences between different regions and different styles.

All these wines will benefit from another year or two's development, but are delicious now.



Montana Reserve Waipara Riesling 2008

(about $22)

A stylish, zesty wine with floral hints and lively lime, lemon, melon fruit and a taut, steely backbone and crisp finish.

Four stars (out of five)

Good value

 



Fromm Dry Marlborough Reisling 2007

(about $23)

A mouthfilling dry wine, more savoury than fruity, with texture and structure that partners well with food.

Match with simply cooked chicken, fish or a vegetable gratin.

Four stars (out of five)

Average value

 



Camshorn Classic Waipara Riesling 2008

(about $28)

Floral, zesty with hints of fresh herbs, lime and even a suggestion of tropical fruit, this wine is off-dry but has a racy finish and a lingering aftertaste.

Three stars (out of five)

Average value

 



Muddy Water Lough, Waipara Riesling 2008


(about $22)

Fragrant with lovely limey fruit and a hint of dried apricots indicating a hint of botrytis, this is full in the mouth, medium sweet but with a lively tension and dryish finish.

Four stars (out of five)

Average value



Craggy Range Glasnevin Gravels Waipara Riesling 2008

(about $26)

One of Craggy's three single vineyard rieslings (the others are from Marlborough and Martinborough), this lively wine dances on the tongue with floral hints and suggestions of lime and mineral.

It's racy and tingling on the finish. At 10% alcohol, it's ideal for lunch.

Four stars (out of five)

Average value



Murdoch James Blue Rock Martinborough Riesling 2008

(about $27)

A delicate floral wine with hints of guava and lime, texture in the mouth and a crisp, dry finish.

Match with simply cooked, very fresh fish with a slice of lime or lemon.

Three stars (out of five)

Poor value

 

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