There are many styles of pinot gris, from those lush with tropical fruit and the heat of high alcohol, to tighter, drier styles that are better with food, and even toasty, oaky wines that have been barrel fermented and left on lees that give complexity and creamy nuttiness.
BEST VALUE
$19.95
Four stars (out of five)
Good value
Fragrant, almost pungent, with mouthfilling fruit (guava, peach, tropical fruit and herbs), a hint of mineral and complexity and texture from ageing in old barrels on lees.
$19.99
Three stars
Average value
A big wine, intense with oodles of sweet ripe pear, golden peach and tropical fruit flavours, with a hint of nuts and an attractive finish.
$23
Four stars
Good value
Another full-on wine with oodles of lush tropical fruit - pineapple and golden peach, but with a suggestion of nuts and a bright crisp finish off-setting the richness.
$25.50
Four stars
Average value
Less overblown than some of the others in this tasting, this is complex with savoury, nutty undertones, a silky texture and a crisp, dryish finish. good with food.
$27
Three stars
Below average value
A firm, dry wine, fragrant with hints of flowers, herbs and ripening pear, a silky texture, and a light bitterness that makes it good with food.
$30
Four stars
Average value
Smoky oak, and hints of nuts and caramel from the barrel fermentation and lees, support the fruit and bring a creamy hint of toast to this complex wine. With such judicious oak handling, his shows another side to pinot gris.
ANOTHER GLASS
Te Mania Nelson Pinot Gris 2009
$22
Three stars
Below average value
A lighter style, juicy with suggestions of nuts, a silky texture and some heat on the finish.
Gibbston Highgate Dreammaker Central Otago Pinot Gris 2010
$25
Three stars
Below average value
A light, dry style with hints of pear, lime, grapefruit, nuts and toffee, a juicy acidity and a slight bitterness that needs food to balance.
Northburn Central Otago Pinot Gris 2010
$30
Three-and-a-half stars
Below average value
Fragrant with hints of citrus, pear and quince, a creamy nuttiness and and bright, crisp finish. Good with food
Ata Rangi Martinborough Lismore Pinot Gris 2010
$30
Four stars
Average value
From one of the leading Martinborough producers, this stylish wine hints of pears and herbs with toasty, nutty undertones that add complexity, a silky texture and crisp, lively finish. It will evelop with time in the bottle.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.
