When a wine has a lot of acidity or grippy tannins, food is called for to mitigate the often harsh or rough finish, but when the wine is in balance, which sometimes comes with maturity, they can be delicious. The best, of course, are harmonious even when young and therefore very drinkable.
BEST VALUE
$17
Three and a half stars (out of five)
Good value
A youthful deep purple with soft fruit, plums and spice, simple, easy and attractive with supple tannins.
hahawine.com
$20
Three and a half stars
Good value
A hint of herbaceousness gives a liveliness to the generous soft fruit (plums and blackcurrants), held in restraint by firm but supple tannins on the finish. Simple and very drinkable.
sacredhill.com
$23
Three and a half stars
Good value
Hints of mineral and blackcurrants on the nose, then ripe, spicy fruit, soft and generous with underlying oak, a suggestion of dark chocolate and firm, grainy tannins on the finish.
eskvalley.co.nz
$40
Four stars
Average value
Lots of spicy oak with generous, lush fruit suggesting plums and berryfruit but also lively with firm, crisp, fine-grained tannins. A wine for oak lovers, this is youthful and will develop with bottle age.
selaks.co.nz
$36
Three and a half stars
Below average value
Syrah is unusual in Central Otago and this, from Bendigo, is lively and peppery with herbaceous and slightly funky hints, suggestions of spice, red fruits and a tight, fresh acidity. There's lots going on here, but the edgy acidity makes it better with food than by itself.
nannygoatvineyard.co.nz
$115
Four and a half stars
Average value
At four years old this is just coming into its own with brooding black fruits, generous, soft dark berries and spicy plums. It's concentrated and mouthfilling with fine, dusty tannins, but above all it's beautifully balanced and harmonious, and has great ageing potential, though it's delicious now.
villamaria.co.nz
