A clutch of Kiwi Chardonnays and a solo act from France

I’m writing the preamble to this particular column from a typically bright and sunny Central Otago (the wines were tasted in Dunedin earlier). My two regular tasting buddies and I have popped up for a short visit to explore a mix of established wineries and some newer names.

Contrary to popular belief, this "lads’ trip" is not accompanied by cloth caps, bicycles, nor the theme music to The Last of the Summer Wine.

An unusual intro to a wonderful flight of Kiwi Chardonnays along with a ringer from France.

2021 Trinity Hill 125 Gimblett Chardonnay

Price RRP $80
Rating Outstanding

Unmistakably 
Chardonnay, yet 
elegance here too, 
finely scented oak, 
spices, a touch of 
licorice. So beautifully 
integrated, nothing out 
of place. The palate is 
similar, deceptively 
powerful, citrusy 
freshness, tropical 
fruits, warm baguette, 
an umami 
savouriness. Gorgeous 
mouthfeel whilst crisp 
& zesty, a crunchiness 
to the long, long close. 
Simply splendid.

www.trinityhill.com

2020 Elephant Hill Salomé Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay

Price RRP $85
Rating Excellent to Outstanding

Smoke, a stony 
quality, bread dough, 
ripe peach, wisps of 
struck match, fine oak 
scents. Drier, tightly 
wound, a sense of 
tension to this. Nutty 
characters, wet 
stones, lemon zest, the 
power and depth 
shines through. 
Structure and intent, 
built for the long haul, 
the long dry close gets 
the salivary juices 
going. The nose & 
palate swells, a wine to 
contemplate. 

www.elephanthill.co.nz

2020 Elephant Hill Sea Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay

Price RRP $59
Rating Excellent to Outstanding

A sense of volume, 
richness, tropical 
fruit, spices anise, 
grilled nuts, integrated 
oak. Super flavour 
intensity and depth 
yet remains light on 
its feet. A tangy 
undercurrent runs 
through this, perhaps 
apple skin, adding 
light chewiness, 
nuttiness again giving 
a savoury quality with 
a hint of clotted cream 
on the close. The 
flavours hang in the 
mouth, gorgeous.

www.elephanthill.co.nz

2020 Black Estate Home Block North Canterbury Chardonnay

Price RRP $65
Rating Excellent to Outstanding

Fascinating nose, a 
tingly quality/fruit 
sherbet, lime cordial, 
bonfire smoke, a hint of 
wildness, oak notes 
later. Again tingly lift 
bringing lightness, 
before textural 
creaminess and flavour 
intensity build. Real 
structural backbone 
with cellar potential. 
Bread dough savoury 
notes, tropical fruit, 
apricot, apricot kernel, a 
bittersweet tanginess 
too. Wonderful carry.

www.blackestate.co.nz

2021 Yealands Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 

Price RRP $19.95
Rating Excellent

Stonefruit, nutty characters, spicy 
touches, red apple 
freshness lurking. 
Coolness to this, that 
apple crispness comes 
through, juicy & 
crunchy. Nice vibrancy 
and so neatly 
integrated that this has 
delightful 
approachability. Flirts 
between stone & 
tropical fruits, with 
refreshing notes of 
mandarin zest and red 
apple on the long 
close. Post reveal, 
excellent vfm here.

www.yealands.co.nz

2017 Alphonse Mellot Cotes de la Charite Les Penitents Chardonnay

Price RRP $79.99
Rating Excellent to Outstanding

Fascinating nose, 
melon, smoke nuts, a 
creamy note. Richly 
weighted, creaminess 
to both texture & 
flavour, melon, peach, 
nuttiness evident, with 
a bittersweet touch 
giving piquancy to the 
finish. Great flavour 
intensity, balance and 
integration, the 
flavours hang in the 
mouth. Grows in 
richness with aeration, 
a sour cream like note 
adding interest.

www.mellot.com