From North Canterbury we have a richer expression from Dancing Water, while Blank Canvas from Marlborough doffs its hat to Chablis.
Finally, a wine from Domaine Thomson’s burgundy stable: St Aubin was less exalted in the past, but warmer vintages are making this an area to follow, with prices still affordable.
2024 Monte Christo Central Otago Chardonnay
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Beautifully fragrant,
honeysuckle like,
peach, lemon zest,
lovely purity. The
palate adds a nutty
influence to those
elements. Crisp, racy,
fresh, creaminess
snapped into line by
the bright acidity. With
air a flinty aspect to the
nose, nectarine on the
palate with a seasoning
of lemon zest; real
energy and drive, great
length. The antithesis
of big, fat, oaky styles,
wonderful with grilled
fish I would imagine.
2024 Blank Canvas Tano Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Outstanding
Gorgeous nose,
elegant, a touch of
salinity/oyster shell,
wild rose, white peach,
refinement. Depth of
flavour yet lightness of
touch, white peach,
hints of apricot and
melon, a sense of
minerality. Mouthfilling,
tangy freshness,
wonderful length, the
flavours hanging in the
mouth. beautifully
"together" yet potential
too. Now, preserved
lemon and oyster shell
linger on the long close.
Fabulous.
2023 Dicey Bannockburn Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
A little touch of
gunflint/struck
match leads the
way, parting to
show cashew nut,
ripe peach, smoke
and a stony aspect.
Peach again, apple,
nice volume in the
mouth, nutty hints a
backdrop to the fruit,
a whisper of oak
spice evident now.
Drinking really well.
Time in the glass
allows this to unfurl,
getting into gear and
opening up nicely.
2023 Dancing Water North Canterbury Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Exotic fruits leap
from the glass,
mango and dried
pineapple, perfume
evolving, fine oak
scents in support.
Rich and supple in
the mouth, there’s a
clotted cream/lactic
quality suggesting
some MLF, while
those exotic fruits
are once again to the
fore, freshened by a
touch of lime zest.
Lovely balance and
integration with the
flavours fanning out
on the long finish.
2024 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson Clutha Left Bank Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Apple and melon,
evident spiciness and
then nectarine, time
opens up some brioche/
buttered croissant hints
with air. On the palate a
character akin to
crushed caraway, a
citrussy note, spice, the
fruit tending to nectarine/
greengage plum ,
brimming with flavour.
Super depth to the
palate, very enticing to
enjoy now. Gathers
momentum with air,
coolness, with a quiet
sumptuousness.
2021 Domaine Thomson St Aubin Les Travers du Chez Edouard
Rating Excellent
Really fragrant, very
engaging, more about
the whole than the
individual parts.
Nuttiness, spice, citrus
and stony aspects
reveal themselves,
while the palate offers
butterscotch, nuts,
white peach and a leesy
quality. Gives an initial
impression of richness,
then the back half
shows tautnesss and
precision shining a light
on its finer side. A wine
to ponder, intellectual
rather than hedonistic.
