Marlborough was not to be left out though with two ’21s getting into their stride (while still offering further upside), and three youthful ’23s showing the potential of this vintage.
2023 Zephyr Organic Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Engaging nose with
smoke/char, lead
pencil, blood/salinity,
ink, red fruits,
fragrance unfurling.
Young, bright, the
palate expresses the
wine’s youthful side,
while chewy tannins
and phenolics lend this
wine quite a bit of
firmness. Good fruit
intensity centred on red
fruits & raspberry acid
drops, savoury
nuances later. Good
things lie ahead, time in
bottle a friend.
2021 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Reserve Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A stony quality,
fragrance, wisps of
forest floor, baking
spices, savoury, fruit in
support. Elegant. Cooler
in the mouth, cranberry,
redcurrant, forest floor,
fine, grainy tannins and
bright acidity reminding
you of the deceptive
backbone to this.
Shows a little more
tautness as it takes on
air; starting to drink
nicely but potential if
you can keep your mitts
off it.
2019 Martinborough Vineyard Marie Zelie Reserve Martinborough Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Deep & savoury, sweet
tobacco, hints of char,
soaring perfume, the fruit
beautifully in balance.
Intrigue & interest.
Velvety mouthfeel, that
savoury charcuterie
quality runs through the
wine, tangy acidity
keeping this fresh.
Superb integration &
togetherness, nothing out
of place, fine tannins on
the close, flavours hang
effortlessly. Classy stuff.
2021 Blank Canvas Escaroth Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Opens to wild herb/stalk
elements, a touch of
wildness, cocoa nib/
dark chocolate, dusty
gravel, perfume,
fascinating. Cool
freshness driven by wild
herbs, red fruits,
tamarillo perhaps,
vibrancy and energy.
The finish a highlight,
long, cool, accentuating
those herb & tamarillo
qualities. Drinkability yet
clear potential, super
complex, fine & long.
2023 Jules Taylor OTQ Wrekin Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Hints of iodine, blood/
salinity shift to lovely
florality, wisps of
herb, rich fruit depth.
In the mouth, the
structural backbone is
to the fore, albeit with
a silky mouthfeel,
powerful brooding
fruits and an
undercurrent of herb.
Serious intent, built for
the future yet
approachable now.
Excellent balance and
a delightfully long,
dry, tannic close.
2023 Rapaura Springs South Brook Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Ink & tar, graphite,
moving to perfume, red
fruits and herb nuances,
later smokiness &
savoury/umami
aspects. Freshness &
fragrance, juicy, bright,
crunchy, emphasising
the fruit purity, joyous,
youthful yet nicely
integrated. Initially a
sense of sheer pleasure
rather than complexity;
aeration begins to turn
that on its head as it
starts to show its
serious side.
