Rarer than sauvignon blanc, still enough to go around

Having tasted this line up of Central Otago pinot gris, I then delved into the latest New Zealand Winegrowers annual report to get the ‘‘state of the play’’ of this popular variety.

Its producing area of 2745ha in 2025 has it in fourth place behind sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and chardonnay and that area under vine has remained remarkably stable for the last five years.

However; due to its higher yields it actually ranks second in the tonnage produced, though barely 7.6% of the sauvignon blanc harvest. It is also our second most exported variety though not quite 4% of the Sauvignon Blanc figure.

It is fair to say that there is plenty to go around.

 

2025 Ruru Central Otago Pinot Gris

 
Price RRP $25
Rating Very good to excellent
 
Aromatic nose, flower petal, 
peach, vanilla bean, fruit 
sherbet, quite engaging. 
Red apple and pear notes leap 
to the fore, a little spice, good 
texture, fruit driven with a 
touch of sweetness. 
Developing  youthful 
chewiness as it opens up, 
good acid drive contrasting 
the just off-dry close.   User 
friendly, especially if you 
love that wisp of 
sweetness.
 
 
 

2024 Rabbit Ranch Central Otago Pinot Gris

 
Price RRP $20.50
Rating Very good to excellent
 
Fruit pastille characters 
are joined by chopped 
herb influences and 
nashi pear. A drier style 
with good structure, 
some fruit pithy 
phenolics adding to 
the mix, with lip-
smacking juiciness 
bringing this very 
nicely to a close. Air 
allows this this to 
really open up on the 
nose, while the 
palate gains stony 
mineral and apple 
notes. In a good 
place to enjoy now.
 
 

 

2024 Hawkshead Central Otago Pinot Gris 

 
Price RRP $36
Rating Excellent
 
A deeper register to the 
aromatics, marzipan, 
apple, a little honeycomb 
too, subtle yet intriguing. 
The palate brings in hard 
candy notes neatly 
balanced by tangy 
freshness. Fruit sweet 
yet dry, well structured 
with great mouth feel 
and finish. Just feels 
effortless. A real juicy 
quality gets the salivary 
glands going, the whole 
package is quite 
engaging.
 
 
 

2023 Domaine Rewa The French Potter Series Central Otago Pinot Gris

 
Price RRP $42
Rating Excellent to outstanding
 
Deeper colour suggests 
some skin contact. A very 
different style, tilting a hat 
to Europe. Cashew and 
almonds, dry honey, clay, 
fruit in support, intrigue 
and fascination. There’s 
grainy minerality to the 
palate alongside almost 
oily richness and 
structure, yet a cooling 
quality too. Complex, 
full of interest, hits so 
many different 
buttons, would be an 
amazing companion to 
food.
 
 
 

2024 McArthur Ridge Falls Dam Alexandra Pinot Gris 

 
Price RRP $25.99
Rating Excellent
 
Pears and dried apricot 
leap from the glass, nutty 
influences, a sense of 
florality, bonfire embers 
perhaps. The palate is 
rich, simply brimming 
over with flavour, 
echoing the notes on 
the nose along with 
dry honey. Lovely 
generosity, fruit 
ripeness/sweetness 
on the mid-palate yet 
crisp and dry on the 
close. Very classic 
Gris, you can’t go 
wrong with this.
 
 
 

2023 Gibbston Valley School House Central Otago Pinot Gris

 
Price RRP $42
Rating Excellent to outstanding
 
A complex nose less about 
the fruit; nutty characters, 
stony minerality, flower 
petal, cooked apple. While 
there’s depth of flavour 
and quiet power this 
remains light on its feet. 
Wonderfully balanced 
and integrated, nice 
grip, it comes across as 
serious, yet 
approachable and quite 
complete. Incredibly 
moreish, you really do 
want another glass.