Time allows winemakers to further hone their craft

Rockburn winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis. Photo: supplied
Rockburn winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis. Photo: supplied
In my view, one of the strengths of the Central Otago wine scene has been the longevity of involvement of so many of its winemakers. Time has allowed them to hone their craft as they seek incremental improvements through a deeper understanding of the fruit that Central Otago produces, while also nurturing the bounty of ever-increasing vine age. 

A quick head count of winemakers that have completed 20 vintages easily surpassed double figures and I’m certain there are others who are either on the cusp or have already surpassed that mark. 

A small handful have gone past 25 vintages, while the redoubtable Alan Brady’s involvement just goes on and on.

The arrival of a group of wines from Rockburn recently reminded me that the 2025 vintage saw their winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis join that merry band in the 20+ club. Congratulations Malcolm on the achievement.

New wine bars in Dunedin

Having had Piccolo wine bar open in St Clair recently, a heads-up for wine enthusiasts that a new wine bar opened its doors over Matariki weekend. 

"The Cellar" is situated at 4 Hanover St and is  opening Thursdays to Sundays from afternoon till late. Run by Colin and Jackie, this is a welcome addition to the Dunedin wine scene.

Science festival wine events

I spotted this late in the piece but the NZ International Science Festival (NZISF) has events for grown-ups too this week.  

Two that caught my eye are Sonic Sommellerie: A Multisensory Wine Odyssey — "a journey through the senses with Dr Jo Burzynska, discovering how different sounds and environments can change the taste of wine".

Also: Getting the Measure of Alcohol — "what is alcohol and how and why do we measure it?" 

Held at Vault 21 and Dunedin Craft Distillers respectively, you’ll find all the details on the NZISF website.

Decanter World Wine Awards

Results are just out and Central Otago secured gold medals for the 2024 McArthur Ridge Falls Dam Pinot Gris, the 2022 Te Kano Northburn Pinot Noir and the NV Mumm Blanc de Noirs. 

The 2023 McArthur Ridge Southern Tor Pinot Noir secured a Platinum award but is now sold out domestically.

The NZ Best in Show Pinot Noir Award went to the 2024 Craggy Range Martinborough Pinot Noir.

2023 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $49
Rating Excellent
 
Sweetly perfumed, contrasted by a 
dusty/lead pencil 
quality, savoury 
notes join the mix, 
flecks of herb, a 
leafy/snow-pea-like 
aspect. Ripe, 
generous, fills the 
mouth, has central 
Otago classicism 
writ large on it. Bright 
acidity gives 
freshness, now dark 
cherry. There’s 
crowd pleasing 
sheer drinkability yet 
complexity and 
depth for added interest.
 

 

2023 Rockburn Seven Barrels Dick Bunton Vineyard Gibbston Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $99
Rating Outstanding
 
A sense of elegance and 
refinement, swelling in the 
glass. Cherry, cranberry, a 
gently savoury 
undercurrent backed by 
schist aspects. Lovely 
tension, not at all showy, 
but built on elegance 
and structure. A sense 
of ethereality, a lighter 
frame but far from 
underpowered, you 
have to come to this but 
it rewards you. The 
nose really grows with 
air, wonderful precision and linearity.
 
 

2023 Rockburn Eleven Barrels Parkburn Vineyard Gibbston Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $99
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Herbal influences, flashes 
of mint and eucalypt 
appear for a moment, 
subtlety, refinement, 
perfume grows, sweet 
fruit, toast/pencil 
shavings, biscuity 
aspects. Flavour depth 
clear to see, ripe yet 
dry, oak seasoning, it 
becomes clearer that 
this is a bigger boy than 
first thought, the tannins 
show their mettle, richly 
fruited, earthy humus, 
dusty characters, the power evident 
now.