In the second of a two-part series, Pam Jones goes to the edge of the Earth as she explores the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park in the Big Island.
I'm peering right into the centre of the Earth, then being tipped over further into a steaming cauldron of spraying lava.
Well that's what it feels like, but I know Paradise Helicopters assistant chief pilot, ex-Marine Chris Rehwaldt, has everything under control. He inspires 100% confidence for even scared-of-flying me, as I throw caution to the wind and face several of my fears.
I recommend the experience.
The Paradise Helicopters Trip takes us on an out-of-this-world circuit of Hawaii's Big Island, including a close-up over Kilauea's summit caldera and its vent, Pu`u `O`o.
The Kilauea volcano - the youngest of five on the Big Island - has been erupting since 1983 but now operates in a steady, civilised manner. There are hot pools of red lava rather than river-like torrents and steaming vents instead of violent explosions, although scientists and tourists have since been thrilled at a new lava flow from Pu`u `O`o finally reaching the sea. The Big Island is now getting bigger, as the fresh lava cools when it hits the sea and settles to form new rock.
Completely thrilled with our viewing, we can only imagine what the first fiery eruptions would have been like as we peer into the steaming caldera, which contains a lava lake known as Halema`uma`u, said to be the home of the Hawaiian volcano goddess, Pele.
Madame Pele is oft-spoken of on the island and credited with much power; it is she who both creates and destroys lands. She is also the goddess of fire, lightning, wind and dance.
So flying over an active volcano with heart racing, mouth agape? Check - it's ticked off the bucket list. But there are more closer encounters to come.
Two days later we find ourselves at Volcano House, nestled in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the edge of the Kilauea caldera.
After the sky clears we have a million-dollar view of the Kilauea caldera. The view from our room is like being on the moon.
Evening reading of the bedside book On the rim of Kilauea, developed from entries in Volcano House's visitor book, is warming and fascinating stuff.
First built as an unfurnished grass hut in 1865, Volcano House went through various reincarnations to become a small hotel then a larger hotel, always attracting deep emotion and poetic prose, particularly when boiling lava eruptions and lakes could be seen.
``Why everyone should attempt to write on so sublime a work of nature whether they have a gift that way or not is to me a puzzle,'' wrote Cicely Anderson, of London, in 1893.
``As I could not do it justice I will merely say that, to me, it was the most awe-inspiring sight I have ever witnessed.''
Another called it the best hotel in the kingdom, another the finest view in the land. Lunar, inferno and gates of hell references were common. Others said only a select few such as Virgil, Dante, Milton and Goethe had licence to try to describe such a view.
For our part, we decided a middle-of-the-night viewing was the best way to experience Kilauea's fiery wonder (and avoid the crowds that fill the crater-side Jaggar Museum and viewing platform during the day). My husband had already done a 2am dash to see the splattering lava. I went back with him two hours later to be left speechless by Kilauea's poker-red aura and sprays of molten earth, seen remarkably close up through a crater-side telescope.
A light rain accompanied us for parts of the next day, which opened up still more sections of the national park.
We took the advice of national park public information specialist Jessica Ferracane at the Kilauea Visitors Centre and walked the 6.5km Kilauea Iki Trail, feeling like we were travelling through the centre of the earth as we crossed the dry crater lake that was once full of oozing magma. I wouldn't have been surprised if a new eruption had greeted us or dinosaurs had appeared. It was like travelling through time and the creation of Earth.
We then drove the lava-lined Chain of Craters Road, having also walked through the Thurston Lava Tube, formed when the outer surface of the lava flow hardened and lava no longer flowed inside. Later we walked the Sulphur Banks Trail, a thermal area full of steaming vents and yellow sulphur crystal deposits.
The 30km Chain of Craters Road has an elevation change of more than 1100m and ends with the elephant trunk-like Holei Sea Arch.
Along the way you will pinch yourself as you drive on a road carved through fields of black lava. Sometimes there is lava as far as you can see. We were running out of words.
On the way back we called in to examine the Pu`u Loa petroglyphs, estimated to number more than 20,000 in a sacred area used ritually for more than 500 years.
Many of the petroglyphs were ``pukas'', or capsules, in which a portion of the umbilical cord of a newborn was placed to ensure long life. Motifs of circles, people and turtles could also be seen from a circular boardwalk built over the volcanic rock.
Our second and final evening at Volcano House was spent in contemplation, after a meal of good Thai food in the nearby Volcano Village.
Then we returned to Volcano House's open fire and crater-side armchairs, specially sited in an area with little lighting or sound.
All you could see was the smouldering glow of Kilauea, while listening sometimes to a slow hiss, other times a quiet rumble.
It was visceral viewing that made you almost throw caution to the wind and run straight to the heart of the crater. But we were already as close to the centre of the earth as we could get.
- Pam Jones travelled with the assistance of Hawaiian Airlines, the Island of Hawaii Visitors Bureau and Hertz Rental Cars.
Checklist
• The Hawaiian islands were formed by volcanic activity and there is one more island on the way: the submarine volcano Loihi is growing southeast of the archipelago as we speak. Scientists say it could take tens of thousands of years for it to rise above sea level.
• Eight main islands make up the state of Hawaii, and the Big Island, officially known as Hawaii Island, is the largest. It contains five volcanoes, including the active Kilauea, which has been erupting since 1983, and Mauna Loa, on top of which there is an observatory. Mauna Loa last erupted in 1984.
• A caldera was formed at the summit of Kilauea when the tip of the volcano collapsed. Visitors can view the caldera from Volcano House, the Jaggar Museum or anywhere along the Crater Rim Trail, all within the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
• Roads and walking trails are clearly marked but always check conditions before setting out. Both the Kilauea Visitors Centre and Jaggar Museum have extensive displays and information.
Getting there
To get to Hawaii, Hawaii Airlines flies three times a week from Auckland to Honolulu, and has more than 170 daily flights from Honolulu to neighbouring islands. The airline allows two 32kg bags, has an affordable upgrade option to Extra Comfort Economy seats and is introducing new lie-flat business class seats progressively from late 2016 in its Airbus A330-200 aircraft.
Hawaiian Airlines also flies from Honolulu direct to 11 cities on the United States mainland.
For more information, visit:
www.hawaiianairlines.co.nz
www.gohawaii.com/nz/big-island
www.hertz.com/p/car-rental/united-states/hawaiiparadisecopters.com
www.hawaiivolcanohouse.com
www.lovebigisland.com/hawaii-volcanoes-national-park
www.nps.gov/havo
