The mass of people and luggage moving between customer carpark and check-in at Port Denarau, Fiji’s main marine transport hub and shopping centre, is frenetic.
Stewards in crisp collared shirts and knee-length lavalavas clutch passenger manifests in one hand and wrestle suitcases into lines with the other.
The earthy aroma of just-brewed coffee floats across the terminal.
As I walk the length of a concrete pier, deck hands on charter yachts ready their vessels for ocean adventures.
If Fiji is to feature on National Geographic’s 2026 Best Places to Visit list, it’s for tropical holidays spent in and on the water and perfect blue-sky mornings like this.
This time, I’m island-hopping to three separate resorts within the less-visited Yasawa and Mamanuca Island groups.
South Sea Cruises’ daily service on board its new high-speed catamaran Yasawa Flyer III stops more than a dozen times on its one-way, five-hour route to the northern Yasawas.
Costing about $NZ195 for a five-day Bula Pass, the service is an affordable alternative to private water taxi and helicopter hire.
In July, it will increase capacity to services within the Mamanuca Islands when it launches another high-speed catamaran called Jaguar.
With international travel to Fiji at historic highs, especially among New Zealanders, even well-established ferry operators like South Sea Cruises know a smoother commute to these offshore islands for even more passengers is a win.
The friendly host pours me a cold fizzy drink on arrival and we chat about what I’ll see on today’s commute.
‘‘The Yasawa group is made up of 20 to 30 islands, stretching more than 80 kilometres to the west of Fiji,’’ she says.
‘‘Arriving by boat is all part of the experience. On this trip, it’s possible to take in its volcanic peaks, as well as its coral reefs and turquoise waters.’’
Since leaving port, I feel myself start to relax.
It might be the air-conditioned comfort and steady stream of snacks in the lounge.
But when I go upstairs to the top deck I notice the twinkly ocean and salty sea breeze working their magic.
Owned by the local community and run by a former school teacher, Tailo Ratugolea, the beachfront resort has the low-key approach I love.
I stay in a simple bure with views of the sea and sign up for a sunrise mountain hike.
‘‘The view is dramatic, but also special because you’re in the spiritual centre of the island,’’ Tailo explains.
The following morning, I leave in the dark with my young guide, traversing rocky terrain and navigating mostly by torchlight.
Above us hangs a three-quarter moon and a dusting of stars.
The only sounds I hear are my own heavy breathing and manic footfalls as I try to keep up.
We press on to reach the apex hot and tired, but thrilled to see the golden glow of a new day.
The next morning I board the Flyer and head further north to Barefoot Manta Island Resort, an Australian-owned resort known for its marine conservation and spectacular snorkelling.
After check-in, I make my way to the marine conservation centre to learn about coral restoration on Drawaqa Island, where the resort is based.
The guided snorkel safari that follows reveals a colourful underwater world of soft and hard corals and abundant fish life.
Peter Farrell, resort owner and today’s guide, takes care to point out various species and explain their part in the ecosystem.
That the reef is in such good condition is thanks to a long-standing marine reserve partnership project run by Mua-ira village and Barefoot Manta, he explains afterwards.
A few days later, I travel to Lomani Island Resort and Spa on the Flyer as it tracks south, transferring to a resort vessel bound for Malolo Lailai Island in the Mamanuca group.
It’s the last stop on my journey and less than an hour’s ferry trip from Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu.
There are plenty of things to do at the resort, but I’m drawn to Lomani’s new wellness centre.
Opened in 2025, it specialises in water-healing therapies using a local seaweed skincare range made by Nama Fiji.
After a leisurely breakfast at the resort’s Flame Tree restaurant, I swim in the clear warm waters outside my beachfront bure then head to the centre.
For three blissful hours, I move between the sauna, pool and spa, finishing the session with a seaweed massage and facial.
On my last evening, I sit on my private balcony contemplating the popularity of Fiji as a holiday destination for Kiwis.
(Apparently, more than 226,000 New Zealanders travelled to the South Pacific nation in 2024.)
I watch coconut palms swish in the breeze.
I see a flying fox fly overhead, while the sound of a guitarist playing Fijian love songs drifts over from the pool.
And I’m overwhelmed by how lucky I am to have ventured beyond Fiji’s mainland hotspots and spent even just a few days on these incredible outer islands.
- The writer was hosted by Fiji Airways and Tourism Fiji
Sunrise walk, Wayalailai Eco-Resort. PHOTO: JACQUI GIBSON
Plan your trip
Mamanuca Islands
South Sea Cruises, the Malolo Cat and the Mamanuca Express all travel to the Mamanuca Islands. South Sea Cruises runs daily fast ferry services to more than a dozen resorts throughout the archipelago, while the Malolo Cat transfers guests to and from the three resorts of Malolo Lailai by ferry at various times throughout the day. The Mamanuca Express, meanwhile, offers a private 24-hour water taxi service to nearly a dozen resorts within the Mamanuca group.
Yasawa Islands
A South Sea Cruises fast ferry travels from Port Denarau on the main Fijian island of Viti Levu to the northern Yasawas daily. Taking around five hours (one way), the last stop is Nacula island, a rugged volcanic island. As the ferry tracks north, making timed stops, resort vessels collect guests and transfer them to island accommodation. The Mamanuca Express, meanwhile, offers a private 24-hour water taxi service to seven resorts within the Yasawas.
Get tickets
Ferry tickets can be bought from South Sea Cruises and Malolo Cat ticketing booths at Port Denarau or pre-booked online (coach transfers from most Nadi, Waialoaloa and Denarau hotels can also be pre-booked online). See: southseacruisesfiji.com or malolocat. com. Contact the Mamanuca Express directly for private water taxi prices and pick up times. See: mamanucaexpress. com
Getting there
Fly direct to Nadi, Fiji, from Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch on Fiji Airways. Book online at: fijiairways. com.
