John Buck, of Te Mata Estate in Hawkes Bay, brought his annual road show to Dunedin last week, presenting his new releases and, as usual, a vertical tasting of three vintages of the two flagship reds, Awatea and Coleraine.
From Dunedin he was flying to Auckland, where he was inducted into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame on Saturday. Among several notable contributions to the New Zealand wine industry, the organisers said, none was as important as his 30-year quest for a Bordeaux blend that matches the first growth wines of France.
The highly acclaimed Coleraine remains a work in progress, and will be for some time because Buck and his team are still striving to achieve the best they can.
Each year, the Awatea and the Coleraine vary in the proportion of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc, the traditional varieties grown in Bordeaux.
"We don't aim at consistency, but the best we can do in any year," he says.
Sometimes, as in 2011, a difficult vintage, they have to make a heavy selection of the grapes, discarding those not up to scratch, which means volumes are down but quality remains the same.
Buck is more upbeat about the new vine clones they have planted. Most of the cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc planted in New Zealand originally came from California, but Te Mata imported cuttings from prestigious Bordeaux chateaus. It takes a long time for them to go through quarantine, be propagated, grafted, planted and mature, but fruit from the cabernet sauvignon plants imported in 1996 is now finding its way into the 2010 wines. The other varieties will come on stream in the next decade or so.
New Zealand cabernet sauvignon is often described as having aromas and flavours of blackcurrants, but grapes from the new vines from Chateau Margaux bring more fragrant aromas of dark roses, which is sought-after in Bordeaux, he explains.
That is obviously coming through in the fragrant 2010 Awatea and Coleraine, both youthful, concentrated wines, the Awatea more approachable with savoury undertones and the Coleraine harmonious, despite its raw power.
Among the earlier vintages, the Awatea 2006 stood out with mellowed flavours, cigar box and tertiary flavours, but still with a freshness. It has matured faster than the Coleraine '06, which will take a few more years to reach this stage, but is also harmonious and drinking well.
Among the whites, the Elston Chardonnay 2010 was as deliciously classy as usual, with wonderfully smoky aromas, restrained tropical fruit, a hint of toast and an aftertaste that goes on for ever. It's just getting into its stride but has sold out from the winery. Look for the 2011, which is out soon.
Buck was buzzing about its unsolicited mention in New Zealand author Daphne Clair's latest Mills and Boon romance, Taken By The Pirate Tycoon - "Te Mata Elston Chardonnay, she noted. Not a cheap wine."
"It's the best accolade," he enthuses, standing next to the bright pink poster of the book's sexy cover.
