One of the more visible in southern New Zealand is Cape Mentelle, one of the older wineries in the Margaret River area. It was founded in 1970 by David Hohnen, who later established Cloudy Bay in Marlborough.
Simon Burnell, winemaker from Cape Mentelle, was in town recently to promote his wines.
Named after a cape at the mouth of the Margaret River, the winery is probably best known for its reds - shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel.
But it also makes a fine chardonnay and an interesting sauvignon blanc semillon with a hint of citrus and snow peas and a bright crisp finish that provides a food-friendly contrast to many of the brasher Marlborough sauvignons.
In fact, I was struck by the food-friendliness of the five wines I tasted. Perhaps it has something to do with the way they follow seamlessly from aroma to fresh, lifted finish.
The Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2007 (about $35) is stylish, mouth-filling and textural with hints of citrus and white peach with a hint of smoky oak and a long, elegant finish.
Cape Mentelle Shiraz 2005 (about $35) is spicy, dry with a hint of licorice and lots of pencil shavings, and rich but not jammy fruit. Simon says drink now to 15 years, especially as since 2002 they have put all their wines under screwcap, which enables them to age slowly and consistently.
Probably one of the best-value wines from Cape Mentelle is Trinders Cabernet Merlot 2006 (about $25-30), a bright wine with rich, dark fruit and a bright finish with dusty tannins.
Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (about $75) is dense and concentrated, powerful but balanced by an elegance. It is a collector's wine that will develop with good cellaring.
