Pinot Gris can be wonderful, as some of those that turned up for this tasting were.
Unfortunately it can also be uninteresting, and often it can be unbalanced by high alcohol.
One that had the typical burning sensation at the back of the throat admitted to 14% on the label, which is standard these days, but the technical blurb that accompanied it said it was 15.4% (labelling laws apparently allow a leeway of 1.5%) - not exactly lunchtime drinking.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Spy Valley Marlborough Pinot Gris 2007 (about $20) is zesty with delicious bright fruit suggesting ripe pears and peaches and a hint of tropical, with intensity yet delicacy on the palate and lively, tingly finish.
4 stars (out of 5)
Tussock Nelson Pinot Gris 2007 (about $18) compared with its stylish but 15.4% bigger brother Woollaston Burkes Bank Pinot Gris 2007 ($22 ***) this Tussock pinot gris is attractive with hints of tropical fruit, nuts and honey, and a lovely bright, creamy finish.
3 and 1/2 stars (out of 5)
Vavasour Awatere Valley Pinot Gris (about $25) with pale green lights, zesty fruit with hints of tropical fruit, ripe pears and lime, this has a silky texture and a lovely delicacy not often found in this variety.
3 and 1/2 stars (out of 5)
Eight Ranges Central Otago Pinot Gris 2007 (about $27) With a pale, pinkish tinge with faint floral aromas, this simple wine has a touch of creaminess and a crisp finish.
3 stars (out of 5)
Mahi Ward Farm Marlborough Pinot Gris 2007 (about $30) A stylish wine with hints of eau de cologne and pears, and intensity on the palate. It has some barrel fermentation, but it's been done with a light hand and adds to the texture and complexity. Delicious, with a bright crisp finish and lingering aftertaste.
4 stars (out of 5)
Camshorn Waipara Pinot Gris 2007 (about $27) this golden wine, verging on a late-harvest style, stood out for its charm and deliciousness, starting with a fragrance hinting of eau de cologne and honey, followed by bright fruit, with a waxy texture, a bright finish and a delectably long, lingering aftertaste.
4 and 1/2 (out of 5)
