It is a lovely time of year to enjoy chardonnay, as their richness makes them food friendly across a range of cuisine, whether that be lighter dishes on a warm late autumn day, or something heartier. A wine from Burgundy in today’s selection too, but a Kiwi connection as it’s from Domaine Thomson’s vines there.
2022 Domain Road Defiance Bannockburn Chardonnay
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Perfumed and fragrant,
melding stone fruit and
ripe apple, evolving to
spice and nuts. The
palate fatter and richer
than the nose implies,
mouthfilling yet not
heavy. Stone fruit and
tropical notes,
butterscotch, spices,
light oak seasoning
joining in, with the
warm glow of the
summer sun on the
finish. Develops
rockmelon notes and
additional creaminess
as it opens.
2021 Hunter’s Offshoot Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
A wisps of gunflint
quickly evolves to
ripe fruits, a touch
of clotted cream,
refined oak
seasoning. Depth of
flavour matched by
a cooling feel in the
mouth, stone fruits,
nectarine, citrus, a
zesty tanginess that
keeps this lively.
Nuttiness and light
toasty elements
come into play, lots
of complexity and
interest in the glass.
Lively, vibrant,
nicely done.
2022 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Chardonnay
Rating Outstanding
Smoke and dustiness, shifts to
fragrance, nuttiness
and stone fruits. A
creamy lactic note
countered by fruit
sherbet tanginess. Nut
and stone fruit
characters meet
lemony citrus keeping
this crisp and zesty.
Opens out wonderfully
in the glass, a
beguiling and fragrant
nose with mandarin
zest, palate builds in
breadth and intensity, a
long, fresh, spicy
close. Tautness in a
good way.
2023 Hunter’s Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Fresh and inviting
nose, peach and
stone fruit notes
lead, a touch of
toffee/caramel and a
light seasoning of
oak that lets the fruit
shine. Creamy palate
entry, again the fruit
nicely to the fore,
fresh acidity
supporting the whole
without dominating,
that wisp of toffee
making an
appearance too.
Supple, refreshing,
nicely done.
2023 Jules Taylor Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Clearly volume on the
nose here, ripe fruits
in the tropical
spectrum contrasted
by a stony/saline
quality. Full in the
mouth, brimming with
flavour impact, again
that ripe fruit very
much to the fore,
hints of toasty oak,
creamy, almost
viscous. Soft and
cuddly at first, the
acidity creates a
nicely cooling
contrast as it gets into
gear, while spice notes frame the close.
2020 Domaine Thomson St Aubin les Travers de Chez Edouard
Rating Excellent
Fascinating nose,
initially wisps of
something wild, wet
wool, shifting to
spice/anise,
smokiness/tobacco
with the fruit swelling
up to meet it. The ripe
fruits kicks off the
palate, supple and
rich before a core of
stony minerality
makes its presence
felt, leading to a dry,
nutty close. Fleshes
out very nicely in the
glass; a wine that makes you think.
