Emerging grape variety looking promising

Could autumn be the time to try some Albarino? PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Could autumn be the time to try some Albarino? PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Among the frontrunners for “alternative or emerging varieties” popping up in New Zealand, Albarino might just have snuck its head into the lead, but only by a nose (forgive the pun).

NZ Winegrowers 2026 Vineyard Data Report shows that albarino has risen to be the sixth-most planted white grape variety and in number 12 spot across all white and red grape varieties.

To put that into some sort of context though, the 66ha devoted to albarino are dwarfed by the 2668ha and 3019ha planted to pinot gris and chardonnay respectively, while the 30,747ha given over to sauvignon blanc absolutely towers above them all.

That said, there is quiet excitement amongst a small group of winemakers that this grape might have significant potential in New Zealand conditions.

The grape has its origins in Galicia in the far northwest of Spain, particularly in the Rías Baixas region while in neighbouring Portugal, going by the name alvarinho, it is the backbone of the vino verde style of wine.

The Galicia region is sometimes called “green Spain” as the climate is cooler and wetter. Albarino has thick skins and open bunches which are more resistant to humidity and dampness in its homeland: this resilience and its early ripening seen as factors in its favour in New Zealand conditions.

Doug and Raewyn Bell are reputed to the first to plant albarino in NZ on their Gisborne Vineyard in 2009, though Stanley Estates in Marlborough also lays a claim to that title. Whichever the case, albarino can now be found in the majority of New Zealand’s wine regions.

Gisborne remains the leader, though Marlborough, Nelson, Hawke’s Bay and Auckland are not far behind while Central Otago is recorded as having a paltry 0.03ha planted.

With its bold flavours of citrus and stone fruits, hints of salinity, rich texture and refreshingly zesty acidity the grape is seen as a natural accompaniment to shellfish and seafood in general.

Albarino might be the exciting new grape variety you’ve been waiting to discover and the following marvellous three wines are a great introduction to what it can offer.

 

2025 Tohu Whenua Matua S.V Nelson Albarino

Price RRP $24.99
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Powerfully perfumed 
nose, peachy 
nuances, flitting 
between lemon and 
lime, stonefruit, a 
wisp of salinity. Quite 
intense in the most, 
great juiciness and 
sapidity, crunchy, 
tangy, almost hitting 
some sweet ’n’ sour 
buttons in a really 
good way. Lime and 
stonefruit, great 
length, closing with 
that little sea-shell 
note. Super tangy and 
zesty, just brimming 
with flavour.
 

2024 Albarino Brothers Gisborne Albarino

Price RRP $24.99
Rating Excellent
 
Distinctive nose, 
smoke, graphite, wet 
stone, peach, citrus, 
rather engaging. 
Creamy richness on 
the front palate, 
becoming finer as it 
travels through the 
mouth. Another wine 
contrasting fruit 
sweetness and 
tanginess, a little oyster 
shell, citrus, good 
length. Integration the 
key here, this is supple 
and oh so drinkable, 
building with air. Lip-
smacking close, lots of 
interest.
 

2025 Forrest Marlborough Albarino

Price RRP $28
Rating Excellent
 
Wild herb, green herb 
notes lead, capsicum, 
peach, citrus, a sense 
of fleshiness and 
depth. Lovely texture 
and richness, 
mouthfilling, peach 
and lime cordial, now 
showing saline 
touches. Fresh, 
vibrant, that creamy 
richness flows through 
the palate yet there’s 
also zestiness offering 
a refreshing contrast. 
Long close. A flavour 
explosion, with air a 
little menthol/minty 
note joins the party.