Exploring Central Otago’s diversity of vintages


A customer walks into a wine shop ... nope; not the start of a joke but a question asked from time to time is whether there are older vintages available?

Sadly, few if any wine shops have either the funding or the appropriate space to hold wines back for future release.

Among a sizable lineup of Central Otago Pinot Noirs tasted recently it was fascinating by contrast to see quite some diversity in the vintages available, with four of the six wines featured below for example from either 2018 or 2019.

In this case, the wineries have done that work for you, allowing you to try wines in their plateau of maturity.

 

2018 Mount Edward Central Otago Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $65
Rating Excellent
 
Lovely florality leads, red 
fruits and rhubarb, an earth/
clay-like nuance. Palate 
shows some development, 
quite spicy with herb/
thyme, again red fruits, 
hints of cherry too, forest 
floor influences. 
Elegant, nicely 
balanced, picking up 
graphite notes, bright 
acidity rounding out the 
close. Good length, 
refined in this hot 
vintage. With reflection, 
my rating has crept up.
 
 

2018 Stewart Town The Bounder Bannockburn Pinot Noir

 
Price RRP $65
Rating Very Good to Excellent
 
Perfume melds with forest 
floor-like notes, red fruits 
and sweet dried strawberry. 
The wine carries those 
characters through into the 
mouth. Quite a chewy style 
with hints of dried herbs 
and pencil lead, the fruit 
sweetness swelling as it 
opens up, matched a 
tangy quality lending 
nice freshness to the 
close. At six years from 
vintage, in a good place 
to enjoy now.
 
 

2019 Stewart Town The Bounder Bannockburn Pinot Noir

 
Price RRP $65
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Jumps out of the glass, dusty, 
smoke, volume to the fruit 
expression of red fruits and 
raspberry. Fruit ripeness here 
but neatly dry, a raspberry 
drops note lending 
brightness backed by 
spice and red fruits, a 
chalky/fruit pith aspect 
adding to the texture. 
Quite simply there’s a 
togetherness to this, 
elegance, complexity, 
supported by lovely fruit 
depth.
 
 

2019 Cox’s Vineyard Gibbston Pinot Noir

 
Price RRP $125
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Hits some different 
buttons, cranberry, a touch 
of piquancy, wild herb and 
savoury notes joining in. 
Complexity and interest. 
The palate engages with 
crunchy texture and 
chewy tannins, 
brightness, vibrancy 
and freshness, again 
cranberry, red fruits, a 
wild herb 
undercurrent, tobacco 
too. Refinement, 
pinosity, a sense of 
coolness, lovely 
texture evolving.
 
 

2022 Poplar Estate Central Otago Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $29.99
Rating Very Good to Excellent
 
Youthful fruit expression, 
red fruited with touches of 
blueberry and rhubarb, nice 
perfume building. Carries 
those characters through 
to the palate adding 
smoke and bonfire 
embers. The fruit 
sweetness grows with 
air, contrasted by 
chewy tannins and 
some refreshing tart/
bittersweet elements 
while the first savoury 
hints arrive as the fruit 
swells.
 
Website under development
 

2022 Grasshopper Rock Earnscleugh Pinot Noir 

 
Price RRP $45
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Earthy touches, wisps of 
char, a minty/eucalypt 
element, plum, increasing 
savoury notes. Delightful 
silkiness on the front 
palate, neatly balanced 
and integrated, all the 
elements working 
together. Time brings 
the underlying tannic 
structure to the fore, a 
reminder of its 
potential. Ends with a 
refreshingly zesty 
piquancy on the long, 
long close.
 

 

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