I have really been enjoying the 2023 sav blancs I’ve been tasting recently — although there is one cheeky 2022 late release interloper among today’s lineup. The sav blancs manage to capture that quintessential brightness and juiciness centred on typical gooseberry and cut grass/chopped herb characters, but are then layering in all sorts of extra flavours. Among today’s wines I spotted pea-pod, capsicum, spice, citrus, nectarine, seashell, lemon verbena and gunflint notes which all increase the palate interest. 2023 Astrolabe Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $30 Rating Excellent to outstanding Fascinating nose, nettle, sweet pea-pod, smoke, cut grass and gooseberry, lifting out of the glass. Initially a touch of tautness, chalky phenolics accentuating the structure before a burst of flavour totally envelops the palate. Almost a tingly quality, dances on the palate, fabulous length, mandarin zest adding a delicious bittersweet note. A wine to contemplate, or simply enjoy. www.astrolabewines.co.nz 2023 Saint Clair Wairau Reserve Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $36 Rating Excellent Wisps of flinty smokiness, lead, quickly evolving to classic SB pungency with gooseberry, capsicum and spice. Delightfully cool, inviting mouthfeel, a core of sweet fruit with ripe nectarine offering that combo of sweet yet zesty. Mouthfilling, brimming with flavour, with a long, long finish framed by lime and a hint of salinity. Classic pungency and brightness. www.saintclair.co.nz 2023 Babydoll Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $19.50 Rating Very good to excellent Nettle, cut grass and capsicum lead, a little gravelly minerality and gunflint follows. Sweetly fruited, gooseberry, chopped herbs, citrus, quite supple, then the juicy, lip-smacking close comes into play highlighting the freshness on the finish. Fans of SB will be very happy with this; it is generous, bright and zesty, delivering a very classic SB experience. www.babydollwines.co.nz 2022 Astrolabe Taihoa Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $37 Rating Excellent This takes a different path, wild yeast/warm baguette, smoke, green bean/pea pod, lemon curd, honeyed yet fresh. Complex and fascinating, the flavours echo the nose, it is all about balance and integration, elegance and refinement showing another side to SB. Brings in a grainy, chewy element to the texture, excellent length, on a richly composed frame. A great food choice too. www.astrolabewines.co.nz 2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $32 Rating Very good to excellent Completely different, a burst of fruit jube with a tangy counterpoint, smoke, citrus zest, an intriguing funky nuance. Green apple and lemony citrus in the mouth, tangy and supercharged, crying out for a sunny afternoon and a plate of cheese. Aeration sees the tanginess ease back as the texture and length are more apparent. Definitely jolts the senses awake. www.carrick.co.nz 2023 Astrolabe Kēkerengū Coast Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $32 Rating Excellent to outstanding Hints of smoke and yeast, less overt green notes, more into the citrus and nectarine flesh spectrum, a grassy undercurrent. Richly textural, almost creamy, understated elegance, a wine that is comfortable in its own skin with deceptive flavour intensity. Lovely complexity, wonderful carry, very alluring, you find yourself looking for another glass. www.astrolabewines.co.nz 2023 Misha’s Vineyard The Starlet Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $32 Rating Excellent A wisp of funkiness draws back the curtain to reveal notes of citrus, chopped herb and a wisp of seashell. A burst of flavour in the mouth, exuberant, vibrant, grabs you by the tonsils and doesn’t let go. A wee touch of chalky phenolics adds to the textural impact. Wonderful length and carry. With air the nose is slightly reticent but the palate absolutely delivers. www.mishasvineyard.com 2023 Domain Road Vineyard Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc Price RRP $27 Rating Excellent A smear of honey on warm brioche, lemon verbena. Cut grass and gooseberry also make an appearance. The palate continues the theme, good flavour intensity and depth with a core of acidity keeping this fresh and racy. With aeration there is real textural impact here, that fatness snapped into line by the long, racy, herb-accented close. A winning combo. www.domainroad.co.nz
