There will already have been early picks for bubbles and rose, then the main event begins: each grape variety, grape clone and site being different in the right moment to pick, sometimes subtly, sometimes markedly. In the end we doff our hats to Mother Nature. Late this year the first whites will appear, sunshine turned into wine
2024 Maude Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Dusty, musky
fragrance leads into
ripe fruit jelly, a charry
nuance, raspberry
jam. Bright, juicy,
youthful, the fruit is
singing here with an
appealing spicy
backdrop. This is just
so approachable,
heart-on-its-sleeve
stuff, clamouring for
your attention. Time in
the glass allows the
tannins to kick into
gear, plum and
blueberry now, this is
all about generosity.
2024 Monte Christo Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Darker fruited, earthy
aspects, clay,
dustiness, spices,
savoury qualities,
subtlety yet rather
engaging. Ripe yet dry,
those savoury and
spice notes integral to
the palate, darker fruits
happily playing the
supporting role.
Medium-weight, not
trying to be a ball-
tearer, this is all about
integration, balance and
great persistence. Nice
complexity with good
grip framing the close.
2022 Folding Hill Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
A surge of perfume
makes way for
florality/rose petal,
wisps of raspberry,
a touch of tar, an
earthy aspect later.
The palate is open
and ready to enjoy,
with lovely texture
and mouthfeel, fresh
acidity adding lift to
the close. The tannic
backbone more
evident now, this is
fine, elegant and not
at all overstated, and
I may well be
underscoring this.
2023 Moko Hills Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
A fascinating combo
of fragrance, savoury
nuances, graphite,
stony minerality, a
touch of wildness, fruit
in support, a sense of
volume yet not ‘big’.
Youthful palate, lovely
chewy tannic grip
leaves you salivating.
Great persistence, the
flavours hang in the
mouth, seriously
composed,
approachable yet with
potential. Wild herb
aromas later, sweet
fruit backdrop yet
closes nicely dry.
2024 Two Paddocks Organic Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Struck match and
gunflint aromas lead,
as they begin to
blow off there’s wild
rose, dark fruits and
pencil lead. In the
mouth the wine
steps up the ante,
beautiful, paper-fine
tannins, great depth,
there’s power yet
weightlessness.
Rather serious, yet
an ethereal quality
with wonderful
texture, carry and
lip-smacking
freshness. Delicious.
2024 Mondillo Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Immediate sense of
volume, fine oak
scents, licorice, ripe
summer berryfruits,
plum, fragrance
growing. Youthful
freshness, plum and
raspberry leading the
fruit charge, lovely
tannic backbone
hinting at further
promise. A little fruit
pastille now, vibrant,
crunchy, youthfully
zesty, depth without
being ‘big’, the flavours
carrying nicely.
Already drinking very
well, yet potential too.
