They cover a raft of vintages from the memorably hot 2018, the quite cool 2020, warm 2021 to the cooler 2019, but one clear takeaway from them is that good wines can be made in any year.
I can be as guilty as any of falling for the perceived "great years", but sensitivity in the vineyard and the winery can lead to great wines in any year.
2021 Wild Irishman Three Colleens Gibbston Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Bonfire smoke, oak
spices, red fruits to the
fore, raspberry, hints of
violetty perfume.
Engaging coolness &
freshness a core, the
fruit joined by flecks of
spice, wild herb and
rhubarb. Elegant, great
balance, depth of
flavour yet light on its
feet. There’s
youthfulness to this,
yet so nicely integrated
that it already appeals.
The growing tannins
show intent for the
future.
2021 Wild Irishman Doctors Flat Vineyard Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Boldly fragrant nose,
spice & savoury
nuances initially, a hint
of funk/saddle leather,
fruit in support. Ripely
fruited, berry compote,
raspberry, charcuterie
and wild herbs, stony
minerality that adds an
almost tingly quality.
Deeper, richer, a depth
of fruit that speaks of
potential yet already
drinkable. Lots to
enjoy, shows its
inherent class.
2020 Valli Waitaki Vineyard Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A sense of some
development here.
Lovely cedary
perfume, cigar box,
earthy touches, wisps
of forest floor, the
nose drawing you in.
A cool vein running
through this, bright,
vibrant, sweetly
fruited yet savoury,
chewy tannins
providing backbone
but not intruding.
Complex, interesting,
flavours hanging on
the close, this really
works as a whole.
2019 Providore P-Series White Label Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Perfume & spice set
the tone, elegance, a
sense of delicacy. The
palate is drier, tauter,
more structured at first,
developing silkiness as
it opens up. Excellent
depth of flavour and
interest, but more
about intent for the
future rather than
immediacy. The nose
grows in power,
adding earthy touches,
extra chewiness to the
texture also evident.
2019 Providore P-Series Black Label Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Attractive fragrance,
intrigue here too,
earth, herbs, black
tea, fruit in the wings,
subtlety. Starts on a
silky path before the
tannins kick in
providing chew and
grip, black tea again
and an almost bitter
sweet quality. Solid
backbone with fine
drying tannins fram
ing the close. Power
yet vibrancy, growing
nicely with all
elements in place.
2021 Carrick Billet Doux Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Youthfully bold, the
fruit bursts from the
glass alongside a
little wildness, forest
floor and tea leaf,
raspberry compote
later. Bright, vibrant
palate with
cardamom,
raspberry and a little
toffee/caramel
nuance on the close.
The acidity adds a
refreshing tanginess
that gets the salivary
juices going. Nice
energy and purity. A
lot of ingredient to
enjoy now.
2019 Penkridge Farm Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Smoke & incense,
earth, savoury
aspects coming into
play, wisps of
charry oak, backed
by fruit. Lovely
depth, fruit filling the
mouth, matched by
bright acidity giving
this lift and vibrancy,
while an element of
sun on warm leather
adds a savoury
aspect. Delicious
drinkability, the
underlying structure
brings a crunchy
quality to the close.
Nicely juicy.
2018 Penkridge Farm Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Lovely florality here,
old roses, violets,
earthy nuances,
dried herbs, the fruit
nicely integrated.
The palate echoes
the nose gaining
notes of sun on hot
bricks, spices and
savoury notes while
further aeration
brings hints of
leather &
mushroom.
Beginning to show
some development
and while there’s
still good grip here,
it’s ready to be enjoyed.
