It got me thinking - hmmm - and a few calculations later and I realised my 500th wine column would have been submitted some time in June, which is quite the milestone. It triggers a couple of observations and the vinous equivalent of the “what I did in the holidays” school essay.
I began writing this column in April 2015, so that’s now more than 500 Monday mornings devoted to tasting wine. That time at the start of the week, fresh and raring to go, also fits in well around column deadlines.
From the outset, I roped in friends who are vastly experienced tasters (Messrs Collins and McLaren) to taste alongside me (although it is possible they have may have begged me to take part?), as their observations, and advocacy for certain wines, helps to temper my over exuberance.
The flights are always tasted blind in random order, then re-tasted at least once more in mixed order, as the position in the flight, and what wine follows, can certainly have an impact on one’s perception. And yes; I always spit as there is simply no way you could remain a functioning human being if you drank them.
One of the biggest and most obvious changes over the past 10 years has been the growth in the Nolo (No or Low alcohol) category, which really wasn’t a “thing” back in 2015.
This is particularly evident in supermarkets, who often have significant shelf space devoted to this category. Whether for health or lifestyle reasons, many are choosing to lower their alcohol consumption and the Nolo sector continues to be a growth area in wine.
Rose is another wine style that really has moved front and centre, from a flippant summer tipple to something serious to enjoy year-round. Ever improving quality, a shift to drier styles and sharper pricing have all been fundamental to growth in this area. In Europe it appears rose will shortly outsell red wine.
The grape varieties that have made up the majority of wine production since the inception of the wine industry here have invariably been French in origin. There has been a gradual growth in diversity, particularly in white wines, and while some have come and just as quietly gone (arneis anyone?) varieties like albarino and gruner veltliner have carved out a small but stable share of the market.
The value of New Zealand wine exports continued to grow year-on-year, though finally had a hiccup in 2024; general economic malaise and tariff threats are likely to further impact the industry. Sauvignon blanc continues to be by far our biggest production grape and the driver of our exports.
COWA have kindly hosted me at several Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebrations and other events, while all manner of get-togethers have enabled me to explore wines from all corners of the globe.
I’ve been fortunate to have a number of wines between 50 and 60 years old, while earlier this year I broached a 1967 Scarpa Barolo and my oldest Kiwi pinot noir, the still remarkable 1982 St Helena from Canterbury.
Fittingly, it’s three wines today from Riverby Estate in Marlborough - the very first winery to send me samples for review, who continue to do so to this day.
I must thank all the wineries, distributors, trade bodies and PR companies who have and/or continue to send samples as without them, this column wouldn’t exist.
2024 Riverby Estate Riesling
Price: RRP $24
Rating: Excellent
Wonderfully fresh, apple and florality, mandarin, very engaging.
Crisply dry in the mouth, apple to the fore, fruit pastille notes conveying fruit sweetness yet closing dry.
A touch of fruit pith gives a grainy aspect to the texture, still relatively tight and youthful.
With air this really gets into the groove nicely, the nose and fruit swell.
I suspect time will be a friend here, and this will keep coming on if you can keep your mitts off it.
2024 Riverby Estate Sali’s Block Riesling
Price: RRP $24
Rating: Very good to excellent
Quite aromatic, Gewurtztraminer like notes of lychee and flower petal joined by wine gum and apple.
Carries those flavours on to the palate, you can begin to see the fruit sweetness here, good flavour depth with some fruit pithy phenolics giving nice grip.
The nose melds into one over time, a tingly quality develops, flowing to a just off-dry close.
2024 Riverby Estate Eliza Riesling
Price: RRP $28
Rating: Excellent
Wonderfully engaging nose, ripe fruits, honey and musk.
Generosity yet suppleness, the acidity is there but feels softer and more rounded in the mouth.
Wisps of musky botrytis character, fruit pastille, perhaps not the sheer complexity of the previous vintage, but this definitely hits the yummy factor.
Rich, honeyed, oh so drinkable, it just works.
