It feels like it has been a while since my last pinot gris column, which can sometimes simply be down to the cycles of new releases and samples coming my way: a couple of these have been waiting for their moment to shine amid a line-up.
The grape is an accomplished traveller across a swathe of Europe; probably best known in Alsace in France, though under its synonym of pinot grigio in Northern Italy possibly equally recognisable.
Italy and Germany grow much more of the grape than France in fact, with sizeable plantings also in Hungary.
It is popular in Luxembourg, Austria, Switzerland and Slovenia, and making an impact in the west of the United States, Australia and of course in New Zealand.
2025 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Gris
Rating Excellent
Deep colour with
copper tinges.
Engaging perfume,
stonefruits and stewed
apple with a dusting of
icing sugar, stony
mineral nuances as it
opens up. Bright and
zesty in the mouth,
apple leads, nashi
pear, ginger fudge,
wisps of caramel.
Brimming with flavour,
textural impact and
chewy grip suggesting
skin contact, with a
powerfully zesty close.
Fruit rich yet dry.
2024 Monte Christo Central Otago Pinot Gris
Rating Excellent
A hint of preserved
lemon, initially more
subtly expressed,
coming out of its shell
to reveal fragrance,
stonefruit, dusty schist.
Fresh, youthful, it’s all
about impeccable
balance and integration,
another dry expression,
so easy to enjoy. Now
a little chopped herb
(sage?) on the nose.
Far from a bombastic,
shout from the rooftops
wine, quite simply
incredibly drinkable.
2024 Nevis Bluff S.V Central Otago Dry Pinot Gris
Rating Excellent
Citrus aspects,
mandarin perhaps,
stonefruits, red apple,
subtle yet engaging.
The palate steps up
the ante with real
flavour depth and
texture, those flavours
unmistakably Pinot
Gris, lingering long in
the mouth. A bit of a
slow burner this,
swelling on nose and
palate with air,
creating a real flavour
explosion. Clearly in a
great spot to enjoy
now.
2025 Tohu Awatere Valley Pinot Gris
Rating Very Good
Nashi pear, ripe pear,
nectarine, a little dusty
prickle on the nose.
That fruit richness
carries through onto
the palate, neatly
contrasted by bright
acidity. Still feels quite
youthful, initially a hint
of tautness before it
begins to loosen its
shoulders with air.
Opens up nicely in the
glass, adding wine
gum and citrus to the
mix. Splash this into
the glass to give it
some air.
2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Pinot Gris
Price RRP $24
Rating Very Good to Excellent
The aromas leap
from the glass, flitting
between stone and
tropical fruits, apricot,
pineapple, ripe
nectarine, peach, fruit
driven with great
generosity. The
palate continues the
journey, lovely purity
of fruit, nice texture
and integration,
remaining fresh till
the close. This has
Pinot Gris writ large
on it and surely will
appeal to all ardent
fans of the grape.
www.riverbyestate.com
2024 Quartz Reef Central Otago Pinot Gris
Price
RRP $36.50Rating
Excellent
A deeper register to the
nose, fruit pastille, light
savoury qualities,
elegant and composed
rather than a fruit bomb.
This has grip and
structure, spice and
savoury characters, a
touch of fruit pith
phenolics adding to the
texture, with a long, long
dry close. A cooling
influence, seashell, or
water over riverstones.
Complex, fascinating, a
more serious style that
will beautifully
complement food.
www.quartzreef.co.nz
