Regular readers will know that Pinot Gris is not my favourite grape variety: I enjoy it, but don’t reach for it as often, though I do recognise the importance of it in the marketplace. It’s like that old saying "different strokes for different folks". But sitting down to today’s selection with my tasting buddies Collins and McLaren, we all felt that somehow the stars had aligned, as the wines shone across the board. It might be time for me to take a look at my predilections, and spread the net wider? 2023 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Gris Price RRP $24 Rating Excellent Beguiling fragrance, toffee apple, spices, pears, a little beeswax with aeration. Youthfully expressed, bright, carrying the characters from the nose through to the palate adding hints of gum and dry honey. Supple and rounded at first, then the racy acidity gets into work creating nice vibrancy. Dips a whisker on the close then roars back for a long, satisfying finish. www.riverbyestate.com 2022 McArthur Ridge Falls Dam Alexandra Pinot Gris Price RRP $24.99 Rating Excellent Preserved lemon, perfume, beeswax, shifting to pear and fruit pastille. Fills the mouth well, a touch of oiliness and richness, spices and a savoury quality, a bittersweet touch adding contrast to the long, honeyed finish. With aeration a wisp of salinity appears on both nose and palate along with a lemony note. Fruit sweet, just off-dry and very easy drinking. www.mcarthurridge.com 2020 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Pinot Gris Price RRP $32 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Fascinating nose, a wisp of funk, quince, almond, apricot, honey with time, a sense of some development. Opens to creamy richness, super texture with a lemon drop note signalling a drier back half. Great integration, balance and complexity, the nose becoming simply gorgeous with the addition of ripe stone fruits and honey. Fresh, long dry close, delightful. www.carrick.co.nz 2023 Ruru Central Otago Pinot Gris Price RRP $25 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Nose leaps out of the glass, pear to the fore, apricot, spices, cashew nut later. A crunchy, almost spritzy mouthfeel lends nice vibrancy and tingliness. Great depth of flavour moving from honeyed aspects to fruit pastille, apple, pear and citrussy nuances. Super balance and purity, the racy acidity brings real freshness. Just off-dry and drinking superbly already. www.ruruwines.co.nz 2021 Main Divide North Canterbury Pinot Gris Price RRP $21.99 Rating Excellent Struck match, smoke, honey, lemony citrus, rose petal, musk, a busy nose. Richly mouthfilling, honey, spice, musk, nicely integrated with a little prickle on the tongue and vibrant acidity giving this lovely freshness. A touch of apricot kernel comes in on the finish, a counter to the fruit ripeness. Reduction more evident with time, but I like it. Lots to enjoy. www.maindivide.com 2022 Loveblock Organic Marlborough Pinot Gris Price RRP $26.99 Rating Excellent Dried/glazed fruits, par, apple a savoury musky aspect. The palate is youthfully expressed with crispness, anchored by lemon drops, apple and fruit pastille notes. All about the freshness, that backbone of acidity adding a sense of coolness to the close. Very nicely done. That fresh acidity would also make this a wonderful companion to food. www.loveblockwine.com