Richer chardonnays pair well with autumn food

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Today’s line-up revolves around a quintet of Central Otago offerings along with a interloper from Hawke’s Bay. I’m of the opinion that any time of the year is a good time to enjoy chardonnay, but these cooler months see it coming into its own.

Those who approach wine seasonally may be cutting back on their aromatics, rose and bubblies, transitioning to richer chardonnays that pair well with the richer foods that appear this time of year. All power to freedom of choice and in my book there is no “right or wrong”, you should open what you enjoy, but if you need temptation to revel in some exciting chardonnays, these could scratch that itch.

2023 Folding Hill Bendigo Chardonnay 
 
Price RRP $38
Rating Excellent
 
Stonefruits, a tangy, 
lifted quality, floral/
blossom, tropical fruits 
follow, a hint of fruit 
pastille later. A stony/wet 
stone quality on the front 
palate, the grip and 
structure becoming 
more evident as it 
unfurls. Rather than 
being showy or flashy, 
this just draws you in 
with its lovely complexity 
and elegance, it works 
on lots of levels, closing 
with a spicy touch on the 
long finish.
 
 
2024 Doctors Flat Bannockburn Chardonnay
 
Price RRP $55
Rating Outstanding
 
Preserved lemon and dried fruits, then 
stone fruits and 
minerality, finely 
scented. Nectarine and 
stone fruits lead the 
palate, hints of 
pineapple, again that 
minerality, delicious 
juiciness that gives 
openness, yet structure 
promising more. Layers 
of flavour that hang in the 
mouth,, superb 
complexity and interest. 
Bran/warm brioche and 
grilled nuts on the nose 
now, you want another 
glass.
 
2023 Moko Hills Bendigo Chardonnay 
 
Price RRP $59
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Fresh, bright and 
engaging, spicy, 
subtle undercurrents 
and complexities 
teasing with promise. 
Mouthfilling, cooling, 
great texture, structure 
and grip as it opens. 
Stonefruits, hints of 
tropical and spice, 
with wonderful length, 
the flavours fanning 
out on the close with 
lip-smacking sapidity. 
Understated elegance, 
focus and poise, feels 
very comfortable in its 
own skin.
 
2023 Carrick Cairnmuir Terraces EBM Organic Bannockburn Chardonnay 
 
Price RRP $60
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Fine oak scents lead, 
ripely fruited, honey, 
spices, nothing stands 
out as everything is in 
place, lanolin/wet wool 
with air. Luscious and 
textural, lovely in the 
mouth, superfluous 
isolating flavours as it’s 
all about the whole. 
Brimming with flavour, 
great length, really 
engaging as it opens out. 
Sumptuousness and 
depth, an each way bet 
for drinkability yet 
 
2024 Nevis Bluff S.V Central Otago Chardonnay 
 
Price RRP $39
Rating Excellent
 
A wisp of smoke, 
grilled cashew nut, 
melon and stone fruits, 
enticing fragrance and 
quite engaging. Fine in 
the mouth, a sense of 
coolness yet at the 
same time deceptively 
rich without at all being 
“heavy”. Vanilla pod, 
stone fruits, white 
peach, freshening 
acidity, great 
drinkablity yet potential 
too. It captures your 
attention without 
having to shout from 
the rooftops.
 
2024 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 
 
Price RRP $39.99
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Gorgeous nose, refined 
oak scents, spices, 
nuttiness, peach, 
absolutely classic and 
totally alluring. Another 
wine offering depth 
without weight, body 
and richness yet 
surprisingly light on its 
feet. Quiet, creamy 
sumptuousness, 
continuing the flavour 
palette begun with the 
nose. Wonderful length, 
totally moreish, 
Chardonnay fans will be 
in heaven here.