I continue my journey through some of the less commonly seen grape varieties, travelling the world by glass as it were, my imaginary plane landing in Vienna, Austria. After a brief stop at the rental car depot a drive west ensues, the Danube shadowing my route after its initial loop north as it leaves Vienna. I’m heading perhaps 80-90 minutes to the Wachau and thence further to Kremstal, as these valleys are two of the spiritual homes of the white grape variety Grüner Veltliner — picking up bags of apricots along the way as this area is a vibrant fruit growing region.
There is a bit of dark history behind the current Austrian wine story in the form of the 1985 diethylene glycol scandal. At the time, large volumes of simple, sweet wines were being exported to Germany. Some unscrupulous wineries began adding (the toxic) diethylene glycol to their wines as it added both texture and sweetness to the finished wine, until this was uncovered by testing in Germany, leading to the virtual collapse of the Austrian wine export market with barely 10% of the former volume leaving Austria in 1986. Things took into the 2000s to fully recover while the focus moved to more serious, dry whites.
One of those grapes was Grüner Veltliner, native to Austria and now their most widely planted grape variety, having similar impact under its synonym Veltlínské Zelené in neighbouring Czechia and also being planted in Hungary and parts of Germany. More recently it is finding success in Australasia and North America. In New Zealand its diminutive 37ha make it the ninth-most planted white grape variety.
Wines from this grape are typically relatively full-bodied, often with a peppery, spicy quality, peach, lime, lemon and grapefruit citrus, lime cordial, sometimes with a lightly herbal quality. Generally dry with a vein of racy acidity. They can be fresh and approachable young, being the staple of the many heuriger (wine pubs) that dot the outskirts of Vienna, but more serious examples can also age very well, becoming more like Chardonnay, while there have been notable tastings in the past where aged Grüner Veltliner has been pitted blind against top white burgundy: the former coming out on top.
Sometimes dubbed the GrooVee grape or simply G.V in the past as it was easier to pronounce, tracking down examples might be a bit of a quest, but one that is certainly worth the effort, with the following three wines being marvellous renditions.
2022 Burn Cottage Central Otago Riesling Grûner Veltliner
Rating Excellent
An impression of
richness, lemony citrus,
apple, spice, ground
pepper. There’s body
and depth yet without
heaviness, this floats in
the mouth. A fruit jube
quality, continuing to
build texture and
richness with air, while
developing lovely
raciness, a lip-smacking
aspect and peppery
nuance framing the
close. Works on all
levels, showing great
length. A blend, yes, with the G.V
element certainly evident.
2024 Blank Canvas Axehouse Vineyard Marlborough Grüner Veltliner
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Florality with a twist,
pepper, hay, an earthy/
woodsy nuance, spice,
peach. Fills the mouth,
playing on the peach and
pepper notes, now
citrus, with a little chewy
grip. Super balance and
integration, crisp and dry
with real energy and
vibrancy. With air a hint
of struck match and
wildness, it all comes
across as a serious
example, while the dry,
chewy grip would be
great with food.
2025 Riverby Estate S.V Marlborough Grüner Veltliner
Rating Excellent
Fragrant nose, fruit
pastille, lime cordial,
some peppery spice.
Supple in the mouth,
quite rounded, riffing
on peach and lime
notes, a little peppery
backdrop comes
through on the close.
Very moreish and
drinkable off the bat.
Perhaps this was a bit
slow out of the blocks
as with air the nose
offers smoke and
pepper, the palate
swelling very nicely, showing depth
and refreshing vibrancy.
