New bakery uses spelt to re-create famous breads

Spelt baker James Musk scores baguettes before baking. Photo by Gerard O'Brien.
Spelt baker James Musk scores baguettes before baking. Photo by Gerard O'Brien.
Throughout Otago, people with a love of food and fresh produce are turning out amazing products. For some it's just a hobby; for others it has become their livelihood. Rebecca Fox finds out their story.

The need to produce ''simple, real food'' led Dunedin chef James Musk to follow his passion for baking.

And a passion it needs to be, as he starts work at 1am every day to fill the shelves of his new Spelt Bakery with fresh produce every day.

As the name suggests, he bakes much of his produce with spelt flour, but not all, as the cost is too great.

There are only two farms in New Zealand producing the grain and for three months of the year it is unattainable, so he stockpiles the grain to cover that period.

''It's a low-yield farm crop and it's pretty hard to get in Dunedin.''

Spelt is an ancient form of hulled wheat considered healthier by many. Its nuttier, earthier flavour comes out in breads.

The trick to making bread was being patient, Mr Musk said.

''You need to become part of the bread, learn to feel it and adjust to the climate and water temperatures,'' he said.

He and his other baker liked to experiment with different flours, and different levels of sourness or fermentation.

''We try to come close to replicating famous breads - breads people are obsessed with.''

It had taken months to develop a baguette they were pleased with and their sourdough had gone from being heavy and sour to allowing the flavour of the flour to come through.

Baguettes now accounted for 50% of their bread sales.

Mr Musk often gives customers advice about a bread and food match. His advises bread is best fresh but tells customers not to be afraid to slice it up and store it in an airtight container in the freezer.

While bread has a bad name with some, he says that's because much of the offerings today are highly processed.

Good bread should only involve flour, water, salt and yeast or a natural fermentation, he says.

''That is not bad for us - everything in moderation.''

The most popular bread he sold was a multigrain, although ciabatta was also in demand.

As they baked the goods fresh every day, their offerings differed and they did not use stabilisers and additives.

While he had not set out to be a pie shop, he now sold 150 a day, with flavours including venison and pork belly alongside the traditional steak.

''The braises go in the pot at 1am and six or seven hours later go into the pie cases and into the oven, coming out fresh at 10am.''

The demand for his products meant they were baking twice a day, in time for morning tea and again for lunch.

 

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