Glorious San Sebastian

The beautiful walking tunnel that leads from Concha beach to Antiguo. PHOTOS: ALEX HANNAGAN
The beautiful walking tunnel that leads from Concha beach to Antiguo. PHOTOS: ALEX HANNAGAN
A trip to San Sebastian is a dive into sheer beauty, reports Alex Hannagan.

As I rewind our time spent in San Sebastian, Spain, about six weeks ago, my first vivid memory is gliding into land over the glorious Bay of Biscay.

The water was so calm and still it was like gazing down at a shimmering, still pond, the kind that gives you the urge to skim a large pebble over.

Looking out the aircraft window we felt so close, as if I could reach out and touch the scattered yachts below.

As dusk sets upon us and our Iberian Airlines flight touches down, a wave of elation washes over me.

We have arrived in Donestia - known as San Sebastian in Basque language.

Nightfall is upon us and before we know it we are eagerly checking into our home for the next five nights, Nobu Hotel San Sebastian.

The hotel opened in June 2021 and has been on my wish list to experience the instant I knew about it.

The Nobu brand, firstly renowned for its world-class restaurants, offers stunning fusions of Japanese and Peruvian flavours across the globe, then evolving into an impressive portfolio of luxury accommodations worldwide, a brilliant unison.

With its prime location, Nobu San Sebastian truly embodies the essence of this vibrant, picture-perfect city.

Overlooking the stunning La Concha Beach, it beautifully showcases the blend of traditional and contemporary architecture, seamlessly integrated.

Nobu Hotel San Sebastian.
Nobu Hotel San Sebastian.
The exterior pays tribute to Basque culture, while the interior features sleek lines, wood, stone, and glass — a fresh yet timeless creation.

As my thoughts turn to the morning and the excitement of exploring at sunrise — especially with one of Europe’s top-ranked urban beaches right at our doorstep, our concierge enthusiastically suggests "you must go now to Parte Vieja (The Old Town) for pintxos and vino! We can drop you there".

Old town at night.
Old town at night.

Sold! Si, muchas gracias!

Within five minutes, we find ourselves in Parte Vieja. Wow.

It's a vibrant tapestry of history and culture that invites exploration at every turn.

As we stroll, I love the maze of narrow cobbled streets that feel enduring and alive.

As we meander along, I once again observe a delightful mix of traditional and modern elements.

Beautifully preserved 19th-century buildings shine under the night sky, accompanied by lively pintxos bars serving delectable tapas-style bites that showcase the region's culinary prowess.

We set off on our first wine and pintxos crawl, an enjoyable culinary adventure.

The key is to indulge in just a few dishes at each stop before progressing to the next.

Each bar showcases its unique specialties, from traditional tortilla de patatas to creative seafood options.

Alex Hannagan tries Pinxtos and sips on crisp Basque white wine in the Old Town.
Alex Hannagan tries Pinxtos and sips on crisp Basque white wine in the Old Town.
All are beautifully presented on the bar counter, artfully arranged on wooden boards and vibrant plates — truly a feast for our eyes.

Accompanied by a glass (or two) of red Rioja Muga, the atmosphere is utterly enchanting. The sounds of laughter, clinking glasses, and lively conversations among the patrons captures a moment that is rather cinematic.

This place is amazing!

The following day, the sun is shining brightly, casting a dazzling glow over La Concha Beach.

We blend in with the locals as we stroll along the shore, listening to their lively conversations in Spanish while they enjoy each other's company.

Swimming and sunbathing are on the agenda, along with a delightful lunch at one of the many fantastic cafes and restaurants lining the promenade.

During our time in Donostia, we soak up every minute of the vibrant atmosphere.

It’s the perfect setting for people-watching, as we observe the rhythms of daily life from dawn until the stars begin to twinkle.

Over the next few days, our itinerary is filled with visits to the beach, sampling delicious food around the old town, achieving a hefty step count, and falling asleep to the soothing sound of waves crashing outside our beachside hotel.

La Concha Beach.
La Concha Beach.
As a shoe lover, I must mention that shoe shopping in San Sebastián is a delight.

Charming boutiques showcase a variety of locally crafted styles, created right here in Spain.

The great sales to be had make the experience even better!

The local personalised service such a lovely touch.

San Sebastian is a pure delight. It will capture your heart, tantalise your taste buds, and possibly indulge or even reveal your inner shoe-lover.

Its charm and vibrant offerings ensure an unforgettable experience that will keep you coming back for more.

San Sebastian, we will be back!