Unexpected in every way

Drakensberg views from Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. Photos: supplied

Alexia Santamaria leaves a part of her heart behind in Free State, South Africa.

Driving into Golden Gate Highlands National Park in Free State, South Africa, as the sun sets, it’s very clear we’re heading into totally new territory.

Leaving safari country, Johannesburg’s art and culture and Cape Town’s coastal glory behind us, this is something quite different. The landscape has shifted from highways broken up by colourful, busy towns to something far more dramatic, and suddenly we are surrounded by vistas that look as though they have been painted rather than formed, vast swathes of green grassland rising into towering cliffs streaked in layers of cream, rust, ochre and deep red — all glowing as the sun drops in the sky.

A biltong vender in Clarens, Free State.

This central pocket of South Africa (fascinatingly also bordering on Lesotho — figure that out if you will), is unexpected in every way; well, at least to me. When many people think of South Africa, they might think of lions and elephants, iconic Table Mountain, white sand beaches or the wine regions — if that’s your thing. But it’s less likely their thoughts would go immediately to hiking trails, horse riding, towering peaks and cosy chalets perched high above the clouds. This underrated region is a playground for those who like their travel with a side of fresh air and adventure.

The Free State is all about vast mountainous landscapes, rich archaeological sites, local brews, artisan produce in charming boutique towns and the chance to experience traditional culture in ways that feel authentic rather than contrived. At times, it looks very much like Australia; at others, the canyonlands of the US; and in places where the rock is more grey than red, even hints of our own Central Otago with dramatic cliffs and almost other-worldly rock formations. It’s the kind of landscape that makes you pause and consider your relative size and importance in the world; it’s clear Mother Nature is calling the shots here.

After settling in at Goldengate Hotel, enjoying dinner and marvelling at a glittering canopy of stars, it’s time for a good night’s rest before a day filled with wonderful and varied activities. The morning begins with a horse trek, which immerses us in these postcard-perfect scenes in a way that feels very different from viewing them through the van window. It’s an easy, gentle ride through vast, open landscapes, giving us a real sense of the slightly rugged, untamed nature of this part of the country.

Traditional food at Bothobapelo Country Lodge.

Needing refreshment, we head to Clarens, a charming boutique town with excellent mooching opportunities. Three hours pass easily between tasting flights of gin and beer at the local brewery (accompanied by burgers the size of our heads — South Africa is not mucking around when it comes to meat), and lots of meandering through shops selling everything, including biltong, coffee, handmade soap, art, clothing, chocolate and homewares. Plenty is purchased, much to the despair of our already heaving suitcases.

The afternoon brings some serious relaxation at Body Bliss Day Spa, where a local lady works some insane magic on my weary muscles. If I lived in South Africa, I would be here every other weekend, getting fresh mountain air, retail therapy and first-rate pampering. It’s the perfect weekend getaway at just three and a-half hours’ drive from Johannesburg.

The next day, we head towards our final destination, the Drakensberg (well, part of it), stopping on the way at the newly opened Kgodumodumo Dinosaur Interpretation Centre, surrounded by even more towering red-rock cliffs — this area sure knows how to bring the drama.

Basotho women at Bothobapelo Country Lodge in Free State.

This part of South Africa has yielded an extraordinary number of ancient fossil discoveries, including one of the oldest dinosaur embryos ever found, and I could easily have spent hours in this informative, modern and interactive space, reading every plaque and spending time reflecting on where we sit in the story of history, evolution and our ever-changing planet. Africa is definitely the place to come if you want to zoom out from the day-to-day concerns of parking woes and the price of cheese and consider the bigger questions: where we came from, and perhaps more importantly, how similar we all really are — something that feels very relevant in a world currently fixated on differences.

Next stop is Bothobapelo Country Lodge, perhaps the highlight of my entire time in the Free State. As we approach the village, some blanketed warriors on horseback appear in front of our vehicle. Initially, we assume they are shepherds on their way somewhere else, but we soon realise they are part of our welcome committee. As we get closer, they are joined by joyous women singing and dancing in striking traditional attire — layered pleated skirts and matching shawls in bold shades of red, blue, pink and white, with gorgeous red headwraps. They are clapping rhythmically and singing with a joy that has us all smiling, disembarking and following in a pied-piper-like trance.

The next few hours are an experience I’ll never forget. We dance, we wander through the gardens, learning about traditional plants and their healing properties, we share lunch, which includes traditional bread, many delicious stews and grain-based dishes served from heavy iron pots. We explore the accommodation, are lovingly wrapped in traditional blankets by some of the women and even experience a foot rub in the "ladies hut" where we are treated with such tender love and care it almost makes me a bit weepy. It feels like we have really gained insight into mountain life, both modern and some re-creations of traditional cultural concepts, and it somehow feels real rather than a production-line tourism experience. Maybe it’s because tourism is still developing in this area and is at that perfect rustic, authentic stage where you feel like you can genuinely connect. We lose track of the hugs and smiles bestowed on us, and are all feeling a bit deflated when it’s finally time to depart.

Colourful clothing in the stores of Clarens.

Finally arriving at Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge for the night, the contrast is striking. We have gone from dancing and singing in the sunshine to sipping big, bold reds around a fire, mist swirling outside in the Drakensberg. The cosy chalet atmosphere is completely unexpected, and further proof this region really has a bit of everything. Drakensberg National Park is a reserve of magnificent mountain landscapes, towering peaks and jagged cliffs plunging into lush green valleys — a bit Lord of the Rings, if I’m honest. Our accommodation could not be more perfectly placed, with clear views of the iconic Sentinel Peak, rising 3165m above sea level, and close to Tugela Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in the world. While time does not allow us to reach Tugela Falls itself, we do manage a morning walk to the much smaller Mahai Falls, which is still seriously beautiful. This area is a hiker’s and climber’s dream with everything from easy meanders to chain ladders, via ferratas and more difficult scaling challenges.

It is really hard to process everything we experienced in just a few days in the Free State. A land of such extraordinary contrasts, where fossil fields and ancient mountains sit alongside cute towns, blissful spas, horseback adventures and heartfelt cultural welcomes, it feels like several destinations rolled into one. I almost certainly left a piece of my heart in this very special corner of the world, and would recommend it wholeheartedly to travellers looking for fresh air, jaw-dropping views, a bit of action and adventure and some time to escape the madness.