I was recently involved with a very rare tasting of German Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). It may come as a surprise that Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, after France and the USA, but we rarely see them here and in this case six of the wines were carried back from the UK. There is a buzz surrounding German Pinot internationally and there were some stylish wines in the lineup, but the group questioned the aspirational pricing and the heavy oak impact in many of the wines; it’s as if the winemakers equate new oak and high prices with a quality statement. A comment was made about them being where Kiwi Pinot was many years ago. Still, it was a fascinating exercise. 2023 Burn Cottage Moonlight Race Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $55 Rating Excellent Engaging nose of spices, earthy qualities, graphite, darker fruits and perfume hinting at violets. Drier in the mouth than the nose might infer, some whole bunch stalk elements joining the dark fruits and earthiness, a forest floor/mushroomy nuance coming with air. Great structure, quite serious, fruit sweetness comes with aeration. The overall sense is of elegance. www.burncottage.com 2023 Ruru Cellar Door Selection Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $33 Rating Excellent Fascinating scents, perfumed in a darker register, then bramble, beetroot, liquorice, juniper, fruit supporting the whole, delightful. Supple in the mouth, red fruits swelling, really lovely balance as fine tannins and acidity kick in, perfectly aligned to the fruit weight. Nice energy and vitality with a lip-smacking quality to the close. Already drinking superbly but I’m sure will kick on too. www.ruruwines.co.nz 2020 Domaine Thomson Explorer Reserve Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $50 Rating Excellent Interesting things going on, rhubarb, coffee grounds, perfume, earth, salinity/ minerality, red fruits, a sense of development, engaging. The palate is still taut and structured, there’s truffley/forest floor like nuances, spices and hints of wild herb. For my palate this is crying out for food, serious, full of interest and smartly made. This should reward time in the cellar too. www.domainethomsonwines.com 2024 Carrick Pot de Fleur Bannockburn Pinot Noir Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent to Outstanding The nose takes a tangent from other wines, tilled earth, stony minerality, cracked pepper, a hint of intrigue, tar, the fruit a supporting act. In the mouth the core of sweet fruit kicks in, contrasted by a tangy quality, crunchy, surprisingly grippy and chewy. There’s purity to the fruit, wisps of boiled sweets on the close, great textural impact, manages to challenge yet envelop you. www.carrick.co.nz 2023 Gibbston Valley GV Collection Central Otago Pinot Noir Price RRP $49 Rating Excellent Quiet warmth and generosity, subtlety, nothing dominating, all about the whole. The palate by contrast is bright, fleshy and juicy, really grabbing your attention, ripe, yet dry rather than ‘sweet’. Deceptively powerful grip, a wine that speaks of potential rather than immediacy. Depth, power, serious wine that doesn’t pander to being a crowd pleaser. Now fragrance and florality swell. www.gibbstonvalley.com 2022 Te Kano Bannockburn Pinot Noir Price RRP $85 Rating Outstanding A touch of struck match shifts to mushroom and truffle, savoury elements, wild herb, the fruit supporting the whole, developing great complexity. Real grip and chew, flavour depth without heaviness, already drinking superbly but also speaks to potential. Freshness now with air, savoury notes framing the long finish, a smart wine with great complexity that works on all levels. www.tekanoestate.com
