Today's lineup really is a "sextet of sizzling Shardonnay" (yes, I do recognise the spelling mistake ... it’s just me being prone to alliteration). Amongst them a trio from Central Otago: I often remark that there are some cracking Chardonnays coming out of Central and this trio fulfil that promise. From North Canterbury we have a richer expression from Dancing Water, while Blank Canvas from Marlborough doffs its hat to Chablis. Finally, a wine from Domaine Thomson’s burgundy stable: St Aubin was less exalted in the past, but warmer vintages are making this an area to follow, with prices still affordable. 2024 Monte Christo Central Otago Chardonnay Price RRP $60 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Beautifully fragrant, honeysuckle like, peach, lemon zest, lovely purity. The palate adds a nutty influence to those elements. Crisp, racy, fresh, creaminess snapped into line by the bright acidity. With air a flinty aspect to the nose, nectarine on the palate with a seasoning of lemon zest; real energy and drive, great length. The antithesis of big, fat, oaky styles, wonderful with grilled fish I would imagine. www.montechristowinery.co.nz 2024 Blank Canvas Tano Marlborough Chardonnay Price RRP $70 Rating Outstanding Gorgeous nose, elegant, a touch of salinity/oyster shell, wild rose, white peach, refinement. Depth of flavour yet lightness of touch, white peach, hints of apricot and melon, a sense of minerality. Mouthfilling, tangy freshness, wonderful length, the flavours hanging in the mouth. beautifully "together" yet potential too. Now, preserved lemon and oyster shell linger on the long close. Fabulous. www.blankcanvaswines.com 2023 Dicey Bannockburn Chardonnay Price RRP $40 Rating Excellent A little touch of gunflint/struck match leads the way, parting to show cashew nut, ripe peach, smoke and a stony aspect. Peach again, apple, nice volume in the mouth, nutty hints a backdrop to the fruit, a whisper of oak spice evident now. Drinking really well. Time in the glass allows this to unfurl, getting into gear and opening up nicely. www.dicey.nz 2023 Dancing Water North Canterbury Chardonnay Price RRP $48 Rating Excellent Exotic fruits leap from the glass, mango and dried pineapple, perfume evolving, fine oak scents in support. Rich and supple in the mouth, there’s a clotted cream/lactic quality suggesting some MLF, while those exotic fruits are once again to the fore, freshened by a touch of lime zest. Lovely balance and integration with the flavours fanning out on the long finish. www.dww.co.nz 2024 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson Clutha Left Bank Chardonnay Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent Apple and melon, evident spiciness and then nectarine, time opens up some brioche/ buttered croissant hints with air. On the palate a character akin to crushed caraway, a citrussy note, spice, the fruit tending to nectarine/ greengage plum , brimming with flavour. Super depth to the palate, very enticing to enjoy now. Gathers momentum with air, coolness, with a quiet sumptuousness. www.domainethomsonwines.com 2021 Domaine Thomson St Aubin Les Travers du Chez Edouard Price RRP $75 Rating Excellent Really fragrant, very engaging, more about the whole than the individual parts. Nuttiness, spice, citrus and stony aspects reveal themselves, while the palate offers butterscotch, nuts, white peach and a leesy quality. Gives an initial impression of richness, then the back half shows tautnesss and precision shining a light on its finer side. A wine to ponder, intellectual rather than hedonistic. www.domainethomsonwines.com
