Take a bow, pants

Nelson-based Skinny Nelson and Friends dhoti-style pants in organic cotton knit at Belle Bird,...
Nelson-based Skinny Nelson and Friends dhoti-style pants in organic cotton knit at Belle Bird, Dunedin. Photos by Gregor Richardson. Model: Hollie Newton.
Kerrily Johnston "Nobility" pants for Max at Max, Dunedin.
Kerrily Johnston "Nobility" pants for Max at Max, Dunedin.
Richard Moore "Fugitive" peg-style pants at Void, Dunedin.
Richard Moore "Fugitive" peg-style pants at Void, Dunedin.
Toni Darling Palazzo wide-legged pants at Halo, Dunedin.
Toni Darling Palazzo wide-legged pants at Halo, Dunedin.
Cue skinny-leg cuff pants at Arthur Barnett.
Cue skinny-leg cuff pants at Arthur Barnett.
Nom*D wide pleat pinstripe pants at Plume, Dunedin.
Nom*D wide pleat pinstripe pants at Plume, Dunedin.
Waughs "Jill" skinny-leg pants with "Diane" shoes by Kathryn Wilson, all at Waughs.
Waughs "Jill" skinny-leg pants with "Diane" shoes by Kathryn Wilson, all at Waughs.
Pam purple wool harem pants with stirrups by Perks and Mini at Plume,Dunedin.
Pam purple wool harem pants with stirrups by Perks and Mini at Plume,Dunedin.
Cue high-waisted skinny-leg pants at Arthur Barnett, Dunedin.
Cue high-waisted skinny-leg pants at Arthur Barnett, Dunedin.

A raft of new trends are seen in women's pants this winter. Fashion writer Jude Hathaway takes a look.

They may have had to bow to the dress and skirt fever of the past couple of seasons, but pants are back. And back they have come in exciting, imaginative and sometimes challenging shapes and silhouettes.

They swing from elegant classic styles through to hardcore edgy takes on harem and dhoti pants and the high-waisted, drop-crotch MC Hammer looks of the late '80s, which many predicted at the time would, or could, never - please God - be repeated.

It's not as if the signs were not there of these new takes on old looks. These extreme designs have been standing in the wings for the past two or three seasons waiting to make a return in their revamped new-millennium guises.

They did this at last year's fashion shows in both hemispheres with fashion-forward New Zealand designers among those breathing new life into these retro looks and serving them up in some fairly creative styles for winter 2009.

Included are peg styles that were hot favourites in the '80s.

The basis of this design is pleats from the waistband creating fullness in the front, while the rear of the garment retains its fitted shape. Legs are either gently tapered to the mid-calf or ankle or, in many of the latest designs, to just under the knee where the line becomes straight and tight-fitting over the calves.

Then there are the more extreme designs.

Dhoti styles (also known as banana, parachute and paper-bag pants) have a similarly gathered look at the waistline, the difference being the dropped crotch, which creates a generous draped look falling to the knee. From here the fabric tightens to the ankle, zips or buttons often used to ensure the snug fit.

Many of these designs give a nod to styles originally associated with acrobatic hip-hop dance moves.

Among these extreme designs is something for just about every age, if it is selected with care and worn as a statement piece rather than an everyday look.

When it comes to these styles, remember that the softer the fabric the better it will skim and drape around the body.

Those with fuller figures should avoid sheeny silks or satins. With so much shine there is a chance of looking larger thanks to optical shenanigans.

Achieving a balanced look should also be considered when adding fuller styles to the wardrobe. Wearing them with loose-fitting oversized jerseys and tunics is a no-no. Rather, fitted knit tops, shirts and jackets will ensure that any resemblance to a yacht in full sail is avoided.

Always flattering are the classic wide-leg pants styles in fluid fabrics featuring higher waists and lines that fall elegantly from above the hips. For the ultimate in feminine cool these should always be worn at floor-skimming length.

Those who have loved the long, lanky skinny-leg look that has maintained popularity over the past few years will be pleased to see them back. While younger fashionistas suit those with extremely high waistlines that draw up over singlets and other snug tops, more mature women can wear traditional slimline styles with tunics and long jerseys as a replacement for far-less-flattering tights and leggings.

This dramatic offering in pants styles does not abate at the end of this season either, with next summer set to include ruched leglines, further harem styles and the traditional jodhpur revisited.

 

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