They varied from 2010 to 2012 and showed a marked difference in vintage, perhaps something most purchasers don't take into account much when buying wine.
There were a handful of 2010s in the tasting, most others having been released earlier. They were concentrated and powerfully structured and will continue to develop for several years, but nevertheless the best retained much charm.
Crops were low and berries small, leading to darker, concentrated wines with bolder tannins according to Nadine Cross, winemaker at Peregrine who introduced the tasting.
I particularly enjoyed Folding Hill's perfumed, generous Orchard Block 2010 ($55) and Surveyor Thomson's charming, mellow 2010 ($45).
In contrast to the big, iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove character of many of the '10s, the '11s were lighter and perhaps more floral, often with peppery and even green notes.
Large crops with large bunches and berries and more leaf canopy produced less concentrated flavours.
It was a vintage that needed careful management in the vineyard to get the best from what nature delivered, but there were several attractive wines here, among them: Judge Rock's simple but charming 2011, Rippon's elegant and complex Tinkers Field 2011, and Mt Edward's lush, firm Morrison Vineyard 2011 ($95).
Half the wines were 2012s, some of which won't be released for perhaps a year. Some were still a tad brash and gawky but showed promise, while others were already delicious but would develop with bottle age.
While the rest of the country had horrendous weather, Central Otago's was lovely with a hot summer and cool, dry autumn producing berries of normal size and even ripeness, Cross said.
Among those that stood out were: Quartz Reef 's well-structured, lively 2012 ($55); Felton Road's lush, powerful Bannockburn 2012 ($72); Nanny Goat's generous, spicy Super Nanny (2012); Gibbston Valley's big, supple Schoolhouse Pinot Noir 2012 ($65); Peregrine's concentrated, complex 2012; Mt Difficulty's velvety, fruity Roaring Meg 2012; Akarua's concentrated, supple 2012 ($49); Mondillo's dark, lush Bendigo 2012; Valli's aromatic, dark-berried Bannockburn 2012; Rockburn's delicious, spicy 2012 ($45); Felton Road's rich, powerful Block 5 ($112); Aurum's concentrated, grippy but promising 2012; and Te Mara's powerful, spicy Ata Mara 2012.
