Waitaki wines tend to be few and far between, because the vineyards are young and still coming into production, so it was a good opportunity to taste what is coming out of the region, notable for its limestone subsoils and marginal climate.
Cold weather and icebergs off the coast at the end of 2006 when the vines were flowering meant poor fruit-set. So there are very few, if any wines from the Waitaki in '07. The '08s are starting to come out early - many would benefit from more time in the bottle but with the lack of '07s, producers are keen to get them on the market.
There is 110ha planted on the north-facing hillsides from about Duntroon to Lake Waitaki, with an older vineyard at Omarama. Most should be in full production either this year or next, according to Jim Jerram, of Ostler Vineyard.
However, the region is young - even the earlier vineyards such as Ostler are only six years old.
The potential production of the planted area was about 400-500 tonnes of grapes, he said.
Ostler wines can be found in Otago, but brands such as Waitaki Braids - made by Michelle Richardson - are only available from Peter Gordon's restaurants in London and Auckland or by mail order.
Craggy Range makes wines from the Otago Station Vineyard, and John Forrest has produced a fine chardonnay that can be found in some fine-wine shops, as can Grant Taylor's Valli Waitaki vineyard label.
However, the new kids on the block, which may be the largest, are Pasquale and the more affordable Kurow Village wines, whose cellar door at Otiake is due to open about October.
One white that stood up particularly well after being opened, topped up and sent from Auckland was The John Forrest Collection Waitaki Chardonnay 2008, with lifted fruit, caramel and toffee undertones, and wonderfully tight minerality. It will be released later this year (about $50).
Dr Forrest has been so impressed with chardonnay from the valley he has planted some in his own vineyard on the hill above Grants Rd. It's also a natural for a blanc de blanc (made from chardonnay) bubbly, he says.
Pinot gris is also strong in the region, the best, such as Ostler's Blue House ($29), Audrey's ($35), and Craggy Range's Otago Station Vineyard ($35) standing out for their charm, structure and finish.
The 2008 pinot noirs were young and light to medium-bodied, some with a hint of pepper, but with more of a mineral character than the fleshier Central Otago pinots. Some, such as Valli ($52) and Waitaki Valley Wines Grants Road Vineyard ($40), were well structured with long finishes.
Waitaki wines are rare, which, along with their novelty value, contributes to their high price. Best value was the simple but fragrant Kurow Village pinot noir 2008, at about $26. Most are available over the internet.
• Find out more:
www.waitakibraids.co.nz
www.ostlerwine.co.nz
www.craggyrange.com
www.forrest.co.nz
www.valliwine.com
www.kurowvillage.co.nz
www.pasquale.co.nz
Waitaki Valley Wines: (09) 357-2687.
