Many pinots are quite oaky which tends to manifest attractively as spice and dark chocolate when combined with ripe fruit.
However, after the wine has been open a few days, the sensation of oak can change and seem coarser, a bit like chewing a mantelpiece. The best wines, however, remain attractive and harmonious.
$30
A bright, youthful, concentrated wine suggesting red fruits backed by lots of spicy oak, savoury undertones and a lively, exciting edge.
Good value
Three stars (out of five)
BEST VALUE
$42
A big wine with a silky texture, ripe fruit, oodles of spicy oak, and supple, slightly dusty tannins. Delicious, mouthfilling and with a satisfying aftertaste.
Good value
Five stars (out of five)
BEST VALUE
$35
A complex, harmonious wine hinting of plums spice and almonds with restrained fruit hinting of cherries and dark chocolate, spicy oak and a firm, tight structure. A blend from vineyards at Maori Point and Chinaman's Terrace.
Good value
Four stars
$35
The little brother of Mitre Rock, this has savoury undertones, hints of strawberry jam, lots of spicy oak and dark chocolate which meld to produce an attractive wine with a slightly chewy finish.
Average value
Three stars
$41
A lighter expression of Central pinot with hints of red berries, a creamy spiciness and a stylish finish. Understated and charming.
Below average value
Three stars
$45
At three years old this is beautifully fragrant, oozing rich fruit - cherry, plums, red berries, strawberries, supported by spicy oak, and a crisp, bright and textural finish.
Average value
Four stars
ANOTHER GLASS
Pete's Shed The Ridge Central Otago Pinot Noir 2009
$25
A light wine grown on the McArthur Ridge vineyard near Alexandra, this is crisp and fresh with hints of cherry plums and spice, but with a green edginess that verges on unripe. Better with cheese and other food than by itself.
Below average value
Two stars
Gibbston Highgate Estate Soultaker Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$39
A hint of mineral underlies this light but attractive wine, with sweet fruit, light spiciness, a hint of toasty oak and an apparent slight sweetness on the finish.
Below average value
Three stars
Tarras Vineyards The Canyon Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$45
From a vineyard on Chinaman's Terrace at Bendigo, this is a big, rich, mouthfilling wine but with a silky texture, oodles of ripe fruit hinting of dark cherries, lots of spicy oak and firm, dusty tannins.
Average value
Four stars
Tarras Vineyards The Steppes Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$45
A wine that seems full of contradictions - a herby, green edge, but oodles of ripe fruit, lots of spicy toasty oak and a firm, tannic backbone, textural and gutsy, but at present perhaps a little lacking in charm. From a new vineyard at Maori Point, it may come into harmony with a little more time in the bottle.
Below average value
Three and a half stars
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.
