The fact chardonnay is making thrilling wines in Central seems to be simply common sense, as alongside Pinot Noir, it is one of the cornerstone grapes in Burgundy in France. Emulating Pinot Noir’s success is a numbers game though; with a smidgen less than 5% of the Central vineyard devoted to chardonnay, it is dwarfed by Pinot Noir. Exciting times for Central chardonnay.
2022 Monte Christo Central Otago Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Fragrant nose, nutty
characters enlivened
by white peach &
citrus, freshness.
Opens to creamy
richness, then a vein
of acidity brings real
cut & verve, again
freshness & coolness,
mimicking the nose.
Stonefruits (esp
nectarine) come into
play, with a little lactic
undercurrent. Initially
crying out for food, but
comes on strong with
air time. Vibrant, nice
energy.
2022 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson Clutha Left Bank Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Elegant, this just quietly
goes about its
business, nuttiness,
light oak seasoning,
stonefruits, fragrance
building with air.
Deceptive wight to this,
good flavour intensity &
excellent balance with a
long, crunchy finish.
Rather than shouting
from the rooftops, this
stealthily wins you over
adding a little
greengage plum to the
fruit rich, zesty core.
Elegance indeed.
2022 Mount Edward Central Otago Chardonnay
Rating Very Good to Excellent
A wisp of bonfire
embers, burnt match,
a stony/earthy like
aspect, rockmelon
with a citrus
backdrop. Bright
acidity framing this, a
cooling feel, fine
tannins giving
backbone. The notes
on the nose make their
way to the palate, a
finer style rather than
a ball-tearer, with that
struck match
character which I
enjoy, but may not be
everyone's cup of tea.
2023 Ayrburn Central Otago Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Engaging, appealing
nose, stone fruits to
the fore, nectarine,
apricot, warm
baguette, a wisp of
caramel, fragrance
building. Richness &
power without overt
weight, ripe fruits while
retaining a cooling
quality. Excellent
balance & integration,
this is confident in its
own skin. Already
enjoyable off the bat,
but should travel
further with cellar time.
2023 Cox’s Vineyard Gibbston Chardonnay
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Expressive nose, ripe
fruits showing tropical
notes of mango &
pineapple, ripe
nectarine, smoky, a
kiss of oak spices.
Supple & rich in the
mouth, viscosity,
reinforcing the nose
while adding a touch
of cashew nut, all the
while lively acidity
offers freshness.
Initially open; with air
showing its youth,
some grainy tannins
adding to the texture.
Time on its side.
2022 Gibbston Valley China Terrace SV Chardonnay
Rating Very Good to Excellent
A smoky, almost
brooding quality, wet
stones, fragrance
growing, a bready/
oatmeal biscuit thing
going on. A real stony/
schisty feel in the mouth
lending chewinesss &
sapidity, nuttiness
growing, clotted cream,
the fruit a confident
backdrop. Swells nicely
with air, garnering a
lime/lime cordial note
and lovely depth. Tangy
zestiness frames the
close.
2023 Felton Road Bannockburn Chardonnay
Rating Outstanding
Subtlety initially, teasing
you as it reveals its
secrets. Fragrant, nutty,
nectarine, a smoky
quality, doesn’t shout
from the rooftops but
draws you back for
more. Structural
backbone to this, while
there’s an impression of
so much waiting in the
wings, hinting at its
potential. Long, long
close, effortless, a
serious wine, I return
again & again; one to
watch.
2022 Dicey Central Otago Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Grilled nuts to the
forefront, oak spices,
a little clotted cream,
the fruit neatly
supporting the whole.
Ripe fruits flood the
palate, initially there’s
an almost sweet ’n’
sour, yin & yang thing
going on, tanginess
neatly contrasting the
nutty richness, before
the underlying power
makes its presence
felt. Now it’s just oh
so drinkable, while
retaining that tingly
freshness.
