I do go on about chardonnay having sometimes been cast as an unsung hero in the firmament of Central Otago wine. Hero status sits comfortably with this group and, unlike the line from the famous David Bowie song, without a doubt for well more than just one day. The fact chardonnay is making thrilling wines in Central seems to be simply common sense, as alongside Pinot Noir, it is one of the cornerstone grapes in Burgundy in France. Emulating Pinot Noir’s success is a numbers game though; with a smidgen less than 5% of the Central vineyard devoted to chardonnay, it is dwarfed by Pinot Noir. Exciting times for Central chardonnay. 2022 Monte Christo Central Otago Chardonnay Price RRP $55 Rating Excellent Fragrant nose, nutty characters enlivened by white peach & citrus, freshness. Opens to creamy richness, then a vein of acidity brings real cut & verve, again freshness & coolness, mimicking the nose. Stonefruits (esp nectarine) come into play, with a little lactic undercurrent. Initially crying out for food, but comes on strong with air time. Vibrant, nice energy. www.montechristowinery.co.nz 2022 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson Clutha Left Bank Chardonnay Price RRP $45 Rating Excellent Elegant, this just quietly goes about its business, nuttiness, light oak seasoning, stonefruits, fragrance building with air. Deceptive wight to this, good flavour intensity & excellent balance with a long, crunchy finish. Rather than shouting from the rooftops, this stealthily wins you over adding a little greengage plum to the fruit rich, zesty core. Elegance indeed. www.domainethomsonwines.com 2022 Mount Edward Central Otago Chardonnay Price $45 Rating Very Good to Excellent A wisp of bonfire embers, burnt match, a stony/earthy like aspect, rockmelon with a citrus backdrop. Bright acidity framing this, a cooling feel, fine tannins giving backbone. The notes on the nose make their way to the palate, a finer style rather than a ball-tearer, with that struck match character which I enjoy, but may not be everyone's cup of tea. www.mountedward.com 2023 Ayrburn Central Otago Chardonnay Price RRP $65 Rating Excellent Engaging, appealing nose, stone fruits to the fore, nectarine, apricot, warm baguette, a wisp of caramel, fragrance building. Richness & power without overt weight, ripe fruits while retaining a cooling quality. Excellent balance & integration, this is confident in its own skin. Already enjoyable off the bat, but should travel further with cellar time. www.ayrburn.com 2023 Cox’s Vineyard Gibbston Chardonnay Price RRP $90 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Expressive nose, ripe fruits showing tropical notes of mango & pineapple, ripe nectarine, smoky, a kiss of oak spices. Supple & rich in the mouth, viscosity, reinforcing the nose while adding a touch of cashew nut, all the while lively acidity offers freshness. Initially open; with air showing its youth, some grainy tannins adding to the texture. Time on its side. www.coxsvineyard.co.nz 2022 Gibbston Valley China Terrace SV Chardonnay Price RRP $49 Rating Very Good to Excellent A smoky, almost brooding quality, wet stones, fragrance growing, a bready/ oatmeal biscuit thing going on. A real stony/ schisty feel in the mouth lending chewinesss & sapidity, nuttiness growing, clotted cream, the fruit a confident backdrop. Swells nicely with air, garnering a lime/lime cordial note and lovely depth. Tangy zestiness frames the close. www.gibbstonvalley.com 2023 Felton Road Bannockburn Chardonnay Price RRP $62.50 Rating Outstanding Subtlety initially, teasing you as it reveals its secrets. Fragrant, nutty, nectarine, a smoky quality, doesn’t shout from the rooftops but draws you back for more. Structural backbone to this, while there’s an impression of so much waiting in the wings, hinting at its potential. Long, long close, effortless, a serious wine, I return again & again; one to watch. www.feltonroad.com 2022 Dicey Central Otago Chardonnay Price RRP $40 Rating Excellent Grilled nuts to the forefront, oak spices, a little clotted cream, the fruit neatly supporting the whole. Ripe fruits flood the palate, initially there’s an almost sweet ’n’ sour, yin & yang thing going on, tanginess neatly contrasting the nutty richness, before the underlying power makes its presence felt. Now it’s just oh so drinkable, while retaining that tingly freshness. www.dicey.nz
