Bruce was bemoaning the fact that many wine lovers turn their noses up at these varieties.
It’s a common refrain among those like him and I, which has been captured by these wines.
It’s difficult to pinpoint the hurdle that holds people back from riesling; perhaps today’s wonderful wines might change a few minds?
I’m certain Bruce would have been in heaven, had he tried these: I was definitely in my happy place! Note the stellar Pegasus Bay Museum release - it won’t be available for long.
2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Riesling
Rating Excellent
Florality leads, white
flowers/honeysuckle,
dustiness, lime flecks,
apple, mandarin later.
A hint of sweetness
leads before a shaft of
acidity romps in to give
a drier impression on
the close. Grapefruit,
lime cordial, apple
crumble, racy and
quite lip-smacking.
Aeration sees the
palate fatten, gaining
creaminess, a
honeyed note on the
close. Bright, crisp &
youthful.
2023 Gibbston Valley Red Shed Central Otago Riesling
Rating Excellent
Engaging nose, white
flowers, florality,
citrus, green apple a
touch of minerality,
dry honey and lanolin
later. Some
creaminess, then
wonderful interplay
between racy acidity
and fruit sweetness,
yet closing dry. Again,
dry honey, apple and
citrus with a very long
close. Draws you
back for more, a
lovely each-way bet
between drinkability
and potential.
2023 Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling
Rating Excellent
Another lovely nose,
flirts with honeysuckle,
there’s red apple and
spice, lemon zest, very
classic. Dry on the
palate, nice textural
action going on, a wisp
of fruit pith adding
interest, initially an
almost sweet ‘n’ sour
quality adding
piquancy which
rounds out very nicely
as it takes on air, the
red apple flavours to
the fore. Already
drinking well, but likely
even better with time.
2023 Dicey Bannockburn Riesling
Rating Excellent
The nose implies
richness, musk, apple,
clover honey with an
undercurrent of stony
minerality. Honey is
joined by orange and
herb on the palate, a
smoky backdrop, a
rather fascinating
palate, a deeper, more
brooding aspect
snapped back into line
by the honeyed yet
zesty, just off-dry
close. A tingly quality
makes a foray.
Fascinating, some
intrigue here.
2020 Gibbston Valley G.V Collection Central Otago Riesling
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Very aromatic, quince,
smoke, a camphor-like
note, apple and honey,
a suggestion of a wisp
of sweetness? Creamy
texture leads to a
deeper register, still a
youthful tautness,
delicacy rather than
exuberance, cerebral
rather than a crowd
pleaser, this somehow
feels effortless. The
nose and palate grow
with air, this is a stealth
bomber that quietly
ignites the senses.
2014 Pegasus Bay Aged Release Waipara Riesling
Rating Outstanding
The nose exudes
richness, flinty
minerality, beeswax,
mandarin/tangelo, apple,
a sumptuous and
complex nose that draws
you back again and
again. That richness is
there on the palate too,
matched by wonderful
tension, a chalky aspect
adding to the texture.
Writing about the
flavours is superfluous
— this is vital, vibrant,
complete. A wonderful
example of aged riesling
with yet more potential.
