The day I tasted these wines I bumped into an old friend, Bruce, who happens to be an ardent fan of both riesling and Gewurztraminer. Bruce was bemoaning the fact that many wine lovers turn their noses up at these varieties. It’s a common refrain among those like him and I, which has been captured by these wines. It’s difficult to pinpoint the hurdle that holds people back from riesling; perhaps today’s wonderful wines might change a few minds? I’m certain Bruce would have been in heaven, had he tried these: I was definitely in my happy place! Note the stellar Pegasus Bay Museum release - it won’t be available for long. 2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Riesling Price RRP $32 Rating Excellent Florality leads, white flowers/honeysuckle, dustiness, lime flecks, apple, mandarin later. A hint of sweetness leads before a shaft of acidity romps in to give a drier impression on the close. Grapefruit, lime cordial, apple crumble, racy and quite lip-smacking. Aeration sees the palate fatten, gaining creaminess, a honeyed note on the close. Bright, crisp & youthful. www.carrick.co.nz 2023 Gibbston Valley Red Shed Central Otago Riesling Price RRP $42 Rating Excellent Engaging nose, white flowers, florality, citrus, green apple a touch of minerality, dry honey and lanolin later. Some creaminess, then wonderful interplay between racy acidity and fruit sweetness, yet closing dry. Again, dry honey, apple and citrus with a very long close. Draws you back for more, a lovely each-way bet between drinkability and potential. www.gibbstonvalley.com 2023 Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling Price RRP $20.90 Rating Excellent Another lovely nose, flirts with honeysuckle, there’s red apple and spice, lemon zest, very classic. Dry on the palate, nice textural action going on, a wisp of fruit pith adding interest, initially an almost sweet ‘n’ sour quality adding piquancy which rounds out very nicely as it takes on air, the red apple flavours to the fore. Already drinking well, but likely even better with time. www.hunters.co.nz 2023 Dicey Bannockburn Riesling Price RRP $32 Rating Excellent The nose implies richness, musk, apple, clover honey with an undercurrent of stony minerality. Honey is joined by orange and herb on the palate, a smoky backdrop, a rather fascinating palate, a deeper, more brooding aspect snapped back into line by the honeyed yet zesty, just off-dry close. A tingly quality makes a foray. Fascinating, some intrigue here. www.dicey.nz 2020 Gibbston Valley G.V Collection Central Otago Riesling Price RRP $30 Rating Excellent to Outstanding Very aromatic, quince, smoke, a camphor-like note, apple and honey, a suggestion of a wisp of sweetness? Creamy texture leads to a deeper register, still a youthful tautness, delicacy rather than exuberance, cerebral rather than a crowd pleaser, this somehow feels effortless. The nose and palate grow with air, this is a stealth bomber that quietly ignites the senses. www.gibbstonvalley.com 2014 Pegasus Bay Aged Release Waipara Riesling Price RRP $45 Rating Outstanding The nose exudes richness, flinty minerality, beeswax, mandarin/tangelo, apple, a sumptuous and complex nose that draws you back again and again. That richness is there on the palate too, matched by wonderful tension, a chalky aspect adding to the texture. Writing about the flavours is superfluous — this is vital, vibrant, complete. A wonderful example of aged riesling with yet more potential. www.pegasusbay.com
