A tranquil beach of two halves

Chrystalls Beach, population (temporarily) two — one ODT reporter and one ODT photographer....
Chrystalls Beach, population (temporarily) two — one ODT reporter and one ODT photographer. PHOTOS: CHRISTINE O’CONNOR
Otago Daily Times reporter Mike Houlahan takes a drive to Chrystalls Beach in the last of our five road trips around the region.

Route

Dunedin to Chrystalls Beach, via Taieri Mouth (77km, time depends on your choice of vehicle and how confident you are on metal roads, but about 1hr 20min).

The drive

Plain sailing on tarmac as far as the picturesque hamlet of Taieri Mouth, but as soon as you pass the last house you are on gravel the rest of the way.

The road travels through forestry stands where swathes of pine have been levelled in recent times, leaving scrub and flowering gorse to reclaim the hills.

Tantalising glimpses of the sea offer a teaser of what is to come, but it is not until you make a moderate climb up to the Irishman’s Rd intersection that you get to see the full grandeur of the Pacific.

The Pacific beckons, from the hill above Chrystalls Beach.
The Pacific beckons, from the hill above Chrystalls Beach.
From there it is a short plunge down to the expanse of beach and ocean.

There are two parts to Chrystalls Beach, a 10-minute drive away from each other due to a lagoon dividing the settlement, and each is well worth a look, as is the nearby settlement of Bull Creek.

Attractions

Nothing. Apart from a few humble cribs at either end, there is almost nothing at all at Chrystalls Beach. If you want to get way from it all but still be close to Dunedin, this is probably as remote as it gets, and a taste of what coastal living used to be like in New Zealand before developers got in on the act.

What you do get though is a glorious beach to look at and that’s definitely something. Do not be tempted to go swimming though, no matter how hot it is — there is a vicious and dangerous undertow.

Up at the northern end of the beach there are some rocky outcrops which seals and sea lions periodically sun themselves on.

A plaque noting the controversial stranding of the French vessel Marguerite Mirabaud at...
A plaque noting the controversial stranding of the French vessel Marguerite Mirabaud at Chrystalls Beach in 1907.
Fuel

Gas up before you leave; once you get out of the city you are in the back of beyond.

Eat and drink

Pack a picnic. Only a handful of people live out here permanently, so no-one is going to open a cafe or restaurant any time soon.

History

Not a lot. The only landmark on the beach is Cooks Head Rock, a volcanic vent named after the famed navigator. The beach’s sole claim to fame came in 1907 when the French vessel Marguerite Mirabaud wrecked here. The crew claimed they stranded in thick fog. The local legend is that the crew beached the vessel to loot the cargo.

Scorecard

If you like solitude and spectacular scenery, 5/5. If you want flash surroundings and modern amenities 0/5.

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