Until a few years ago, Chiang Kai-shek statues were seen in almost every major town square, but these days you'll be hard-pressed to find one, unless you head for central Taipei's Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, where a huge bronze of the former leader dwarfs elite members of the armed forces on guard at the entrance.
Inside, there is more memorabilia than most tourists can cope with - photographs of the Generalissimo, as Chiang Kai-shek was known, with world leaders, including Churchill and Roosevelt; medals and items of clothing; his office with a lifelike wax figure of Chiang Kai-shek at his desk; and two enormous bullet-proof Cadillacs he travelled in.
For light relief, it's a short walk from the hall to the Taiwan Handicraft Promotion Centre, a good spot to buy well-priced artworks, craft items and other souvenirs. Cloisonne earrings were less than $NZ3 a pair and an American in our group was well-pleased with a painting that cost her about $NZ50.
Also nearby is Longshan Temple, with its pretty little waterfall in the forecourt and statues of deities.
Among them is the goddess Matsu, who guarantees safe travel, as she has done since the temple was built 270 years ago. Shopaholics can get their fix across the road, where there is an underground market
