Danube discovery

Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic. Photos: Antony Boomer.
Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic. Photos: Antony Boomer.
The Baroque interior of Passau’s main church.
The Baroque interior of Passau’s main church.
The author in front of Neuschwanstein Castle.
The author in front of Neuschwanstein Castle.
The Augustiner Biergarten.
The Augustiner Biergarten.
A panorama suite on board the Avalon Passion.
A panorama suite on board the Avalon Passion.

Cruising the Danube, Antony Boomer reignited the sense of wonder and excitement he felt as a child viewing pictures  of Austrian castles.

After an orientation to the hotel on arrival in Munich, a visit to the Augustiner Biergarten seemed appropriate.

The Biergarten featured a green, wooded area. Patrons were predominantly locals, many decked out in lederhosen and dirndl.

Much like at a supermarket, you grab a litre of beer, a large pretzel or some pork, pay at the checkout and enjoy.

The atmosphere is friendly, overly so in some cases.

As afternoon turned to evening, the dappled green effect created by the sun filtering through the trees darkened.

We headed back to the hotel well satisfied.

With a free day to explore Munich, we headed to the old part of the city.

The route along Kaufingerstrasse to the central Marienplatz is lined with beautiful structures enhanced by spring colours with tulips in bloom.

From Marienplatz we walked to the tranquil 17th-century Hof Garten. Before entering the Englischer Garten, we came across youngsters surfing where the force of water cascading through a culvert creates a wave where boarders can perform a variety of moves.

Next stop was the Park Cafe Biergarten for lunch. All the beer establishments have a Radler (shandy), Dunkel (dark) and normal lager. Some have a Weiss (wheat) bier, an acquired taste.

That evening we headed to the Augustiner Keller. The interior is as you would imagine a Munich beer hall to be: vaulted ceiling, slightly worse for wear; wall art depicting various beer iconography; bushy sideburns, bulky frauleins with an enormous capacity to carry beer.

The service was again outstanding; our waiter was friendly, funny and very down-to-earth.

The first day of our planned trip involved a tour of Munich and an excursion to Dachau concentration camp.

The first part, by coach, took in the Oktoberfest grounds and the enormous Nymphenberg Palace.

We took a walking tour of the central city, culminating in viewing the glockenspiel on the Neue Rathaus.

The real highlight for me was the detail our guide added around the history of the city itself, particularly the aftermath of World War 2.

For lunch I made a culinary faux pas by ordering a slice of Leberkas. If you have seen the pie scene from Titus Andronicus, you will get an idea of what appeared on the plate: a slice of pink, heavily processed meat.

A German couple sitting next to us highlighted my mistake, suggesting bread and mustard were required to make it palatable.

Dachau concentration camp followed. I had visited before but was keen to go with a guide for more of an insight.

The guide added the detail I needed with several personal stories of some of the camp's inhabitants beyond the general historical narrative.

The visit fulfilled a need to know more.

No visit to Munich is complete without visiting the iconic Hofbrauhaus. The band was playing, the beer was flowing, a pig's knuckle (knoedel) was delivered.

The image of Neuschwanstein Castle was pivotal in setting me on a lifelong course in travel.

From a very young age, the image filled me with a sense of wonder and excitement and a determination to visit places like this.

Visiting Neuschwanstein involves a relatively easy half-hour walk to the castle. Entry is strictly controlled.

It was a blow to my younger self to discover that the castle itself wasn't a medieval construction, but rather a culmination of the dreams of the ill-fated King Ludwig in the 19th century.

We then boarded our cruise ship, the Avalon Passion, in Passau. My initial reaction was: ''That's quite small.''

The reality is, there is enough space once you are organised.

There are no balconies on Avalon ships but with a complete floor-to-ceiling sliding door there is no need, and I very much prefer this style.

Unlike on ocean cruises, the focus of the experience is outwards along the river and on the cities you visit, rather than inwards towards shows, restaurants and other entertainment.

The first order of business was meeting in the lounge for Champagne and canapes while Andre, our Polish/Austrian cruise director with an uncanny vocal resemblance to Rene from 'Allo 'Allo!, outlined how things work on board.

This was followed by dinner, a la carte. Breakfasts are buffets.

A walking tour of Passau with our guide, the hilarious Sonia, followed: ''It is 9.02, ve are German so ve vill go.''

Passau is at the confluence of three rivers: the Inn, the Danube and the Isar.

One of the many highlight was Sonia's explanation of the Baroque interior of the town's main church. It added context to the display around us, which was attempting to re-create heaven on earth. I still wouldn't decorate my own house this way but I now understand the aim.

There was great excitement as we approached our first lock. These are amazing, but it is also true that once you have done one, further experiences vary little.

We docked in the centre of Linz and walked into the city centre after dinner.

I had been waking around 5 every morning. Rather than get my book out, I opened the curtain and was delighted to see the sun shining brightly on a mist-shrouded river, so I headed into town as the rising sun illuminated the city's church spires.

A one-hour drive entering the Czech Republic took us to the vaunted Cesky Krumlov.

The history of the town was interesting but it was guide Sharka's description of her upbringing under communist rule that was compelling.

The idea that you could have no idea of what life was like, or that life even existed, beyond a barbed wire wall is fascinating.

As she pointed out, she had no problems with her upbringing - she was loved and happy - but she was grateful for the opportunities her children now had.

As we descended into town and towards the river, the sun came out and Cesky's magic was there for all to see. Every turn revealed an alluring vista.

Post-tour, we had time for lunch and additional exploration.

Three of us decided the Eggenberg Monastery, with its own brewery and goulash, would be a good way to spend our time here.

While several tours are provided there is always time for individual exploration, shopping and eating.

This had been a great day and was topped off by a beautiful cruise to the small village of Grien.

I enjoyed this day, as it opened my eyes to the possibility of enacting my own agenda on a river cruise.

Getting up early was now a habit so I enjoyed a bit of solitude on the sky deck as we entered a lock at the beginning of the Wachau Valley, the centrepiece of the cruise.

Our guide to the monastery of Melk was again witty and extremely knowledgeable, but it was a bit European Palace 101. All very nice, lots of famous people and then you get to the church. This is a jaw-dropper - get through the first bit, because what unfolds before you at the end is utterly astounding.

Back on the ship we cruised the Wachau Valley, an array of castles, monasteries and lively picturesque villages.

The highlight of the day was arrival in Durnstein. A stunning vista presented itself but the meandering journey through the Wachau Valley with Andre's enlightening and often witty commentary is the essence of river cruising.

Further, the opportunity to dock near a city centre allows leisurely exploration from its heart.

Overnight, we made our way to Vienna.

A busy day with a city tour and optional visit to Schonbrunn Palace was completed with a night out at the Albertina Palace and the Vienna Supreme Orchestra.

In the morning we visited the Spanish Riding School and followed up with a slice of Sacher torte in the Hotel Sacher. There was a queue but it is worth it.

With this experience, the horses and the concert, I felt very in tune with Vienna, where the cruise ended.

For me, it was a journey of rediscovery and new insights into this form of travel.

Would I do it again?

I would as long as the itinerary conformed with my interests, secure in the understanding that if I wanted to, I could add my own excursions.

-Antony Boomer is retail manager at House of Travel

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