Plucky US city is a revelation

Old-soul Texas meets modern fun in Grapevine. It’s a remarkable little destination that packs a huge punch, writes Mike Yardley.

The pint-sized Texan city of Grapevine certainly struck it lucky with the location gods. Bounded by the sprawling immensity of Dallas-Fort Worth International Airport (DFW), its mighty aviation neighbour prevents the threat of urban sprawl swallowing up Grapevine into the metroplex. DFW, with its seven runways, encompasses a greater area of land than Manhattan Island. This plucky little city remains safeguarded in its own compact bubble, like a world apart, while offering transit passengers at DFW the chance to enjoy an indelible dabble with the delights of Grapevine. The place is a revelation.

At first blush, I thought I had arrived into a highly seductive tourist trap — but it’s actually the real deal, a totally authentic thriving Texan town that has proudly safeguarded and restored its irresistible main street and historic district. Walt Disney would be seriously impressed by its historic, charismatic good looks, which pulse with mixed-use vitality. It’s even got its own vintage railway. Much of Grapevine’s “Vintage Texas” allure, which plays host to over 12 million visitors annually, can be attributed to the passionate leadership of Mayor William Tate. He has transformed his city into a premier destination, a triumph to his vision over many decades to revitalise Grapevine.

In a remarkable milestone, Tate has just celebrated being the longest serving mayor in Texas history in May, clocking up 50 years in office. A statue been erected in his honour, obviously in Main St. Grapevine was founded in 1844 when Texas was its own country — the Republic of Texas, joining the Union as the State of Texas in 1846. The city’s name derives from the wild mustang grapes that once grew abundantly in the area. Today, there’s actually a booming wine scene around Grapevine, which is considered the epicentre of Texas wine culture. My first stop on Main St was at one of the state’s oldest wineries, Messina Hof, which offers 40 different wine varieties. I enjoyed a very indulgent tasting.

I particularly enjoyed Messina Hof Viognier, a medium-bodied white wine with soothing floral and tropical fruit notes. But as a fan of red wine, my absolute favourite was their Estate Sagrantino. They planted these Umbrian vines over a decade ago and the wine has a deep ruby colour and bold tannins. Light aromas of bell peppers are complemented with jammy red fruit flavours, with hints of cinnamon and vanilla. Delish! Eight wineries, including Messina Hof, have main street Grapevine tasting rooms that form the walkable Urban Wine Trail. It’s a relaxed route which takes cellar-door hopping to a whole new level — you can taste the entire Texas wine list without needing a car. Even better, visit in September, when the Main St shuts down for GrapeFest.

The street bursts forth with homegrown retailers and enterprising artisans offering memorable authentic encounters. A great example is the gorgeously evocative Bermuda Gold and Silver jewellery store on Grapevine’s Main Street, where I got a surprise Bonnie and Clyde education. The jewellery store building was previously the Grapevine Home Bank and was robbed by two members of Bonnie and Clyde’s gang in 1932. Owner Debi Meek, a wealth of Bonnie and Clyde lore, will tell you the history of the framed newspaper from the 1932 Fort Worth Star-Telegram on display, which describes the robbers’ eventual capture and their part in helping the police locate Bonnie and Clyde. Their guns are still on display in City Hall.

Grapevine proudly sports its downtown heritage in so many ways. Murals and sculptures abound along Main St. An old jailhouse and early log cabin offer echoes to the Old West. But it’s the bountiful, eclectic dining scene that cast me under its spell. Short on time, I was eager to focus on some signature destinations.

First up, Tolbert’s Restaurant & Chili Parlor. This cherished establishment is steeped in Texan dining pride, founded by Frank X. Tolbert, and home to his iconic “Bowl of Red” chili. His recipe remains a staple of Texan cuisine. It is piping hot, but sure-fire comfort food — a gloopy stew of slow-cooked cubed beef, bursting with bold spices and plenty of red chillis. Tolbert’s is also a great place to tuck into local specialities like Donkey Tails — beef frankfurters wrapped in a tortilla with cheese and deep fried. And order up some tator tots (similar to potato croquettes), which go great with a queso dip, which is a creamy, silky melted cheese with chilli powder. Beyond its culinary delights, Tolbert’s pulls a very convivial crowd, sporting a lot of Stetsons and boots, who pack out the place for the top-notch nightly live music.

Right next door, satisfy your sweet tooth with a late-night scoop or two from Beth Marie’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream. Yes, it’s open late at night! Beth Marie’s makes ice cream using a vintage machine designed a century ago, churning out ten gallons of ice cream in 18 minutes. A scoop of Cinnamon & Oats and Peachy Cobbler, please.

Breakfast to remember? Chez Fabien Main Street Bistro and Bakery is a starring hero. Fabien Goury opened the bakery more than 25 years ago, before adding the bistro. His almond croissants are worth the trip alone. The bistro menu is expansive, but for breakfast, I couldn’t go past his churros French toast, which were soaked in cinnamon cream and served with house-made dulche de leche. Sinfully good.

For a quintessential lunch, I ventured to Meat U Anywhere for some classic Texan barbecue, where slow-smoked brisket and tender ribs are cooked over oak and hickory wood. Can’t decide what to order? The sample plate is ideal for tasting a variety of meats. I also got the chance to prepare some brisket in their special dry rub, before hoisting the huge cuts of beef into the slow-cooked wood fire, under the tutelage of owner Andy Sedino. Thankfully, I didn’t disgrace myself.

Another headliner for the belly in Grapevine is Esparza’s, the Margarita Capital of Texas, and a widely acclaimed Tex-Mex dining destination for over 40 years. Yes, their house margaritas are splendid and they’ve sold millions of them. But it’s their Tex Mex dishes that are particularly drool-worthy. The restaurant occupies a 19th century house that has been beautifully renovated and as I gazed over the full tables in every room of the house, there’s no mistaking the happy, homely atmosphere that courses through the place. The effervescent staff (many of whom have worked here for decades) will fast make you feel like you’re part of the family. From sizzling fajitas to brisket tacos and sour cream chicken nachos, to the delicious bowls of guacamole freshly whipped up at your table, it is a joyful fiesta of Mexican fare, flair and flavour. Leave room for a simple but sweet dessert — sopapilla, a fresh puffed pastry dusted with sugar and cinnamon, along with strawberry sauce, honey and whipped cream.

Book a ticket to ride on the Grapevine Vintage Railroad, where history and hospitality meet to produce a characterful heritage experience. Climb aboard the train and enjoy the authentic 1920s coaches (with all the mod-cons!) while chugging your way through one of the three routes, including the Cotton Belt Route that takes you to the Historic Stockyards. In 1888, the arrival of the Cotton Belt Railroad in Grapevine transformed the small farming community into a regional commerce hub. (During the festive season, tens of thousands of visitors flock here to ride the flamboyantly themed North Pole Express.)

Grapevine Main Station is a striking hub for day-trippers from DFW. You can even leave your luggage at the visitor centre so you can footloose it, stress-free, amid Grapevine’s delights. Within this grand complex, which is reminiscent of a 19th century American train station, the gorgeous Hotel Vin is a luxury boutique property, while the European-style food hall, Harvest Hall, brims with food and beverage enticements, including chef-driven kitchens, craft coffee and bespoke cocktails. For unrivalled views across Grapevine and the Dallas Fort Worth metroplex, zip up the Observation Tower. Right outside in Peace Plaza, I marvelled over the Peace Circle sculptures. This beautiful installation celebrates a moment in time, when Republic of Texas president Sam Houston met with 10 American Indian chiefs and captains on the Grape Vine Prairie in 1843. The larger-than-life bronze statues are exquisitely designed, detailed and a soulful joy to admire.

A truly novel experience is to check out the Cowboys Golf Club — the world’s only NFL-themed golf club. Golfers love the 18-hole championship course, but it’s fun to visit without even swinging a club, for the massive bar and grill and to take a selfie on the iconic Dallas Cowboys star. Etched into the rolling hills of Grapevine, it’s like a grassy shrine to America’s Team and its five Super Bowl titles. Its clubhouse is a museum of Cowboys memorabilia, including the Cowboys’ five Lombardi trophies. (They haven’t won the Super Bowl for 30 years.) There’s stacks of merchandise on sale, too.