Nowadays we take it for granted, yet the quality that we have come to expect in the bottle is the sum of more than 40 years of toil and experimentation by risk-takers and visionaries. When you savour any of these delightful wines, spare a thought for the history that lies behind them.
2023 Main Divide by Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Fragrant nose, fresh,
youthful this is at once
open for business and
yet engaging. The
palate steps up a notch,
can I say playful? Juicy,
crunchy, nice energy,
making a feature of its
bright, youthful fruit
qualities. Unabashedly
not the most deep,
complex and brooding
wine you’ll ever see,
because it’s about great
balance, enjoyment and
drinkability. Pleasure in
every sip.
2024 Hawkshead Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Youthful nose, fruit
volume, red berryfruits,
blueberry,
boysenberry, perfume
developing. The palate
continues the journey,
fresh, youthful, the fruit
now meeting a tangy
counterpoint with
stony gravel aspects.
Feels somewhat primal
and unevolved, nice
elements here teasing
you but more about
potential. I upped my
score on reflection and
re-tasting, this should
shine with time.
2024 Hawkshead First Vines Gibbston Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A hint of wildness on
the nose, cranberry,
raspberry, wild herb
influences, some
struck match with
aeration. Feels quite
youthful, almost a
grainy feel to the
texture with good grip.
A whole bunch stalk
character aligned with
fruit sweetness yet
tangy freshness.
Develops youthful
tautness with air,
good elements though
so I’ll score on the
potential.
2022 Burn Cottage Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
So perfumed, florality,
wild rose, spices, red
fruits. Wonderful silky
texture, a real lightness
of touch, depth without
weight, gorgeous
integration and
balance, fine, elegant
and drinking superbly.
Look away if you’re
looking for a big fruit
bomb. Hints of cherry,
raspberry and wild
herb now, the structure
increasingly evident,
yet at its heart,
incredibly moreish.
2023 Gibbston Valley Le Maitre Gibbston Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Powerfully perfumed
and fragrant, some
whole bunch I suspect
adding to this, spices,
wild herb, red fruits.
grabs your attention.
Intense sweet fruits
lead yet this is not at
all "sweet" as there’s
a coolness to this
while savoury qualities
and deceptively
powerful tannins kick
in. Wonderfully chewy
close with a real
salivatory quality, the
flavours hang in the
mouth.
2023 Gibbston Valley School House Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Bolder fruits at first,
raspberry and cherry
shift to a deeper, more
brooding quality, less
obviously sweetly
fruited, now a touch of
salinity and stony
minerality. The palate is
surprisingly taut and
youthful, powerful
tannins a corset for the
wine, black tea, all about
potential. Opens up
beautifully, really starts
to strut its stuff, amazing
length and structure.
Scoring on the potential.
