I’ve had a soft spot for Hawke’s Bay syrah since stumbling upon the Stonecroft cellar door some 30 years ago and discovering the 1989 syrah: the inception wine of our modern syrah category in New Zealand.
Thirty vintages later, a combination of vine age, new clonal material and a wealth of experience garnered by the wine-makers is seeing some thrilling offerings.
The vintage of 2018 was warm, yet not totally trouble-free, but these labels have risen to the occasion with wines of depth, interest and potential.
2018 Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga syrah Price: $40 Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Fragrant nose, dusty, riverstones, white pepper, earth/forest floor, red fruits. A cool feel, fresh and vibrant, ripe yet not over-sweet, with deceptive tannins that build up. Garners a silkiness as it opens; I could plump for northern Rhone here. Complex, interesting, lovely balance, drinking superbly, yet potential too. Elegant.