Liqueur distributor Hancocks was in town recently offering selected tastings from its vast range of brands to members of the trade for the Christmas market. The wines on offer were all sparkling: after all, it's that time of year.
They ranged from the (almost) sublime, like the complex Pol Roger Reserve Champagne (about $90) to the (just about) ridiculous Edenvale ''alcohol removed'' Sparkling Cuvee (about $15), a de-alcoholised Australian ''wine'' which was a bit like sweet but crisp apple juice.
It made me realise how much the alcohol contributes to the aroma and mouthfeel of a wine.
However, it's probably more drinkable than sparkling grape juice.
Also not recommended for serious wine drinkers was the sweet, pink but otherwise virtually characterless Arrogant Frog rosé from the south of France.
There were big international brands: the lively Spanish cava, Freixenet ($29); the sweetish German Henkell Trocken ($20) which is actually made mostly from wine imported from other European countries; and the slightly nutty French Chambray blanc de blancs ($20).
The two New Zealand sparkling wines on show were a league above these brands.
Allan Scott Cecilia Marlborough Brut ($25) was mouth-filling with a creamy nuttiness and Akarua Central Otago Brut ($30) light on the nose but surprisingly weighty in the mouth with hints of honey, cream and biscotti and a lovely dry finish.
Spirits were also on show and I took the opportunity to try a couple of premium American whiskeys, Jack Daniel's Single Barrel Tennessee (about $90), with a hint of sweetness from corn, char from the oak and mineral from the water, which comes from limestone country.
In contrast was the lovely floral, fruity, harmonious Woodford Reserve Bourbon (about $80) from Kentucky.
