2013 was a good vintage in Hawkes Bay. Craggy Range winemaker Matt Stafford describes it as the ''vintage of a generation''. A tasting of his whites a few weeks ago revealed elegant wines already harmonious, with charming but restrained fruit and nicely balanced acidity, that will no doubt be long-lived.
BEST VALUE
$16
Three and a half stars (out of five)
Good value
Aromas suggesting apple and stone fruit open in the mouth and are supported by hints of nuts and oak, followed by a fresh, textural, dry finish. Nicely balanced.
$20
Four stars
Good value
Attractive ripe fruit with hints of herbs and mineral, undertones of creamy nuts, and a lovely, lively, crisp finish. Well balanced, drinking nicely now and for another couple of years.
$26
Four stars
Good value
An elegant, restrained wine with hints of peach and nectarine, a mineral backbone, suggestions of nuts, mouth-filling and textural with a lovely crisp, dry finish. From a coastal vineyard near Cape Kidnappers.
$25
Three and a half stars
Average value
An oaky chardonnay with hints of freshly sawn timber and toasty oak, but there are also attractive suggestions of citrus and stone fruit and a crisp, lively finish.
$25
Three and a half stars
Average value
A mature wine, broad and mouth-filling with hints of ripe nectarines and citrus, toasted cashews and a lively, dry finish. Drinking well now but probably not for long keeping.
$26
Four stars
Good value
A stylish, youthful wine, zesty with hints of citrus and stone fruit, nicely integrated suggestions of nuts and oak with a well-balanced crisp, lively finish. It's still restrained and will develop with a few years bottle age.
ANOTHER GLASS
Riverby Marlborough Gruner Veltliner 2013
$24
Three and a half stars
Average value
An exciting new variety in New Zealand, gruner veltliner is a dry white wine originally from Austria. This is lightly aromatic, fresh, zesty and crisp with fruit eight and a lovely dry, textural finish. A good food accompaniment.
