WINE REVIEWS: The charm of Riesling

Riesling runs the gamut from lusciously sweet, through medium or off-dry fruity wines to dry wines with a backbone of steely acidity, which tend to develop more richness and charm with a few years bottle age.


◊ BEST UNDER $20
Hunters Marlborough Riesling 2008

($19.50)

Fragrant with a hint of lime and tropical fruit, suggestions of mineral and a steely finish as taut as a violin string, this wine is a stylish accompaniment to food - particularly fish, or even pork belly.

- 3 stars (out of five)

- Good value

www.hunters.co.nz


Chris Dagg
Chris Dagg
◊ BEST UNDER $20
Main Divide Waipara Riesling 2008

($19.95)

A little botrytis brings a suggestion of apricot and honey to the lime and kiwi undertones, and richness and texture to this medium sweet wine. However the finish is crisp and dry with a hint of mineral. Good with rich blue cheese or chicken with apricot.

- 3 stars (out of five)

- Good value

www.maindivide.com


Rippon Jeunesse Young Vines Central Otago Riesling 2008
($24.50)

A wonderfully textural wine, complex with hints of lime marmalade and buttered toast, a firm backbone that suggests mineral and toffee, and a long, finish. Off-dry, stylish and very drinkable.

- 4 stars (out of five)

- Good value

www.rippon.co.nz


Camshorn Waipara Dry Riesling 2007
($27)

A year older than the other wines in this tasting, this is fragrant with hints of lime and a suggestion of petroleum - a characteristic of maturing riesling - full in the mouth with a dry finish. Good with seafood, or something flavoured with lemongrass or ginger.

- 3 stars (out of five)

- Below average value

www.pernod-ricard-nz.com


Pasquale Alma Mater Hakataramea Valley 2008
($27)

This blend of pinot gris, riesling and gewurztraminer is the first from Antonio Pasquale's Hakararamea vineyard. It hints of roses and lime with attractive fruit and a crisp, bright finish. It's good with rich blue cheese.

- 3 stars (out of five)

- Below average value

Available by mail order, www.pasquale.co.nz


Chelsea Goulton
Chelsea Goulton
Prophets Rock Central Otago Riesling 2008
($32)

Here's one for aficionados to cellar for three or five years to allow it to develop. When first opened it was taut with hints of lime, mineral and tart apples, and a steely, searing acidity, but the following day had developed an attractive aroma which suggests its potential for developing, as good riesling does.

- 3 stars (out of five)

- Below average value

www.prophetsrock.co.nz~ ANOTHER GLASS ~


Rippon Central Otago Riesling 2008
($32.50)

More complex than the Jeunesse (see above), this also suggests nuts, toffee and lime marmalade on buttered toast, with a hint of nuts and a lovely richness that belies the steely searingly dry backbone. Delicious now but will develop with bottle age.

- 4 stars (out of five)

- Average value

www.rippon.co.nz


Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder. Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.

- charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

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